#每天读一点服装史87篇# SPORTS AND COUNTRY

1901 - 1914

SPORTS AND COUNTRY

Garments initially developed for sportswear were often modified or appropriated for mainstream fashion.

The most popular example from the male wardrobe were knee breeches of various widths and shapes called either knickerbockers, apparently after the garment worn by 17th-century Dutch settlers in America, or plus fours that extended 4in (10cm) below the knee.

1900 NORFOLK JACKET

Before World War I knee breeches were rarely seen away from the shooting ground or the golf course.

Now they formed part of smart suits worn in town.

Other garments that were used for sports were cardigans for tennis, cricket, and baseball as well as increasingly for leisure wear, and thick, wool sweaters seen on motorcyclists and skiers.

RAY CALDWELL IN WOOL CARDIGAN

Wool sweaters were also popular with fishermen—work wear being another source for fashion innovation.

Sportswear remained modest, however, and the male body was mostly hidden except at the beach where male swimsuits became increasingly revealing, although they did not shrink into mere trunks until after World War II.

SKIING

This 1904 poster for a French resort demonstrates that the vogue for skiing depended on direct trains from Geneva and Paris.

SKIING POSTER

Initially skiers wore multiple layers of everyday clothes.

It was inconceivable that women would wear anything else but skirts.

Specific clothing for the sport was developed only after the war.

1901 - 1914

运动与都市

最初为运动研发的服饰经常遭到主流时尚的修改或者挪用。

男性衣柜中最受欢迎的一个例子是被称为knickerbockers灯笼裤的各种宽度与形状的及膝裤子，显然它是十七世纪荷兰移民在美国穿着的服饰，还有一种叫plus fours灯笼裤，长度会在膝盖下延伸4英寸。

1900 诺福克夹克（右）

第一次世界大战之前，及膝裤子在射击场或高尔夫球场都是不常见到的。

现在他们成为了都市套装中的正式一员。

其他用于运动的服饰包括网球，板球或棒球的针织开衫，休闲服饰的比例增加了，在摩托车手与滑雪选手身上也能看到厚实的羊毛衫。

著名洋基队棒球选手卡德威尔穿着针织毛衣与头戴棒球帽

羊毛衫也受到渔民的青睐，工作服称为时尚创新的另一个新来源。

运动服保持谦逊的风格，男性的身体大部分都是遮挡起来的，除了泳装变得越来越裸露，直到二次世界大战之后尺寸才有明显的缩小。

滑雪

这张1904年法国度假村的海报告诉我们，滑雪的流行取决于直通日内瓦与巴黎的火车。

最初滑雪者只是穿着很多层日常的服装。

他们什么都穿包括裙子。

特定的滑雪服是在战后才被研发出来的。