#每天读一点服装史# SUITS FOR CITY GENTLEMEN

1901 - 1914

SUITS FOR CITY GENTLEMEN

The turn of the century did not herald major changes to the three-piece suit, although some styles were gradually replaced or began to be used for different occasions.

For the day the black frock coat with its long, straight skirt, worn with black trousers, was the most formal option.

It was followed by the cutaway frock (“morning coat” in the UK) with its sloping front, which could be worn with matching or contrasting trousers.


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MORNING COAT 1901



The lounge suit, originally country wear, was now worn in town.

In the evening options gradually expanded as “tails” (tailcoats) were joined by tuxedos (tail-less dinner jackets), at first only considered appropriate for informal dinner parties.


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TAILCOATS WITH STIFF COLLAR

More formal attire demanded the stiff collar, available in several shapes.

Men had a wide choice of accessories including canes, umbrellas, a variety of hat styles, cravats, bow ties, watch chains, and tiepins.


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NEW SUIT 1910



ROYAL FASHION LEADER

King Edward VII had become a male fashion icon when he was still Prince Albert of Wales, popularizing the Norfolk jacket, the Homburg hat, and the Albert watch chain.

The king also lent his name to double-breasted frock coats, which he preferred.

The unusual closure shown here might have had more to do with his increasing girth than with any fashionable considerations.


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PRINCE ALBERT

1901 - 1914

都市绅士套装

新世纪初始并没有对男士西装三件套产生多大影响,尽管有一些款式被替代,或者开始在不同场合使用。

日常装束以黑色长裙摆外套,搭配黑色休闲裤,是最正式的穿着。

之后的斜下摆裁剪外套(又称英国”晨间礼服“),下身可以穿着配对或者对比的裤子。


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MORNING COAT

原始的乡村休闲套装,现在在城里穿着。

晚装的选择则是“大拖尾”与“无尾晚餐夹克”的组合式燕尾服,起初它只是在非正式晚宴穿着。


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晚装燕尾服

更正式的服装要求有坚硬的衣领,衣领的形状也有好几种。

男士在服饰配件上有非常宽泛的选择,包括手掌,雨伞,各种帽子,领结,领带,表链以及领带夹等。


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1910新套装

皇家时尚领导者

当国王爱德华七世还是威尔士王子阿尔伯特时,他已成为男性时尚偶像,诺福克夹克,霍姆堡帽子以及阿尔伯特表链都是由他领导流行起来的。

国王甚至用他的名字命名了双排扣大衣。

他穿着双排大衣时不寻常的扣扣方式,可能与他日益增加的腰围有关,而不是出于时尚的考虑。


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阿尔伯特王子

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