#每天读一点服装史# NOVELTY AND LUXURY

1380 - 1450

NOVELTY AND LUXURY

Many hallmarks of fashion were in place by the late 1400s: novelty, innovation, an element of impracticality, luxury, and -- commentators insisted -- excessive vanity and social presumption.

Sumptuary laws still tried ineffectually to regulate who wore what.

English and French head wear was fantastical, large, and varied.

Italians were more natural; the Flemish preferred modest linen veils.

The bride in van Eyck's 1434 portrait wears Italian clothing for her wedding in Flanders. The bulk of the fur lining in her wool gown gives a fashionably prominent belly when lifted up.

Like men, women adopted the houppelande and other long, full pleated gowns cut from large, circular shapes, belted over a tight underdress that was buttoned or, incresingly, laced down the front.

Their long, separate sleeves emerged from under the huge, open outer sleeves.

Straight, scooped, or square necklines were low and shaped fashionably high round bosoms, sharply contrasting with the new high collars of outer clothing.

Feather Edge houppelande with fantastical headwear

公元1380 - 1450年

新奇与奢华

十四世纪有许多时尚特点：新奇，创新，不切实际，奢华，以及 -- 评论家坚信的 -- 过度虚荣与社交放肆。

禁奢令仍旧无法规范人们穿什么。

英式与法式头饰式样荒诞不经，巨大而多样。

意大利人穿着则更自然；佛兰德人喜欢温和的亚麻面纱。

Van der Weyden 在1430年精湛的画作，捕捉到羊毛长裙里的每个细节，里面都是松鼠毛皮，从提起的下摆中我们可以看到金丝锦缎。

和男性一样，女性穿着胡普兰衫houppelande，和其他长款宽大打褶的袍子，圆形轮廓，用腰带将它与紧身打底衫一起系紧，打底衫是纽扣式或者从下向上交叉系带式的，系带会垂在前面。

他们那长而独立的袖子从巨大，开口的外袖下出现。

一字形，勺形，或方形领口线都是低而有型的开到胸前，与外衣的新式高领口形成鲜明对比。

收腰宽袖胡普兰衫，搭配宽形对称帽