#每天读一点服装史# FROM DRAPE TO SHAPE

1500 - 1560

FROM DRAPE TO SHAPE

Soft, draped lines began to disappear as the century went on.

Women's dress had two main parts: bodice and skirt, and sleeves were often separate too.

The gradual move from clothing that draped over the body to clothing that shaped it was complete.

Only outer robes and coats were now waistless.

Full skirts widened with gathered and pleated waistlines.

Outer skirts were opened up in front to reveal a petticoat or forepart underneath.

The Spanish farthingale (a hooped petticoat) created a bell shape and defined the century's silhouette.

Bodices became smooth and fitted by adding stiff materials inside.

While the torso straightened, sleeves grew larger and more elaborate.

The empress Maria wear Spanish-style dresses. The contrast between black and white was used in both austere and extravagant fashions across Europe.

LINEN SHIRTS

Beneath every elaborate gown a linen undergarment was worn next to the skin.

It was known by many names: English smock, shift, or shirt; French chemise; Italian camisia; Spanish camisa; and German hemd.

This was an essential layer because linen could be washed and it protected outer garments (which were never washed) from the body.

When clothing started to reveal this layer, emphasis around the neck and cuffs increased.

Sleeves became bigger to create abundant billows emerging from gowns.

Catherine Parr, last wife of Henry VIII, shows off the smooth, triangular shapes achieved by reinforced support beneath outer clothing. The sliver-gilt fabric of this gown from 1545 is woven with a large pomegranate pattern.

公元1500 - 1560年

从垂坠到塑形

随着世纪的推演，柔软垂坠的线条开始消失。

女性服饰出现两个重要的组成部分：上衣与下裙，袖子通常是开口的。

服装逐渐从垂坠全身向整体塑形开始演变。

仅有外套长袍与大衣是没有腰线的。

丰满的裙子的腰线被褶皱加宽了。

外罩裙在前面打开，为了露出底下的内搭裙。

西班牙人的衬裙farthingale创造出一种钟型结构，并且定义了这个世纪的轮廓。

通过内部附加硬质材料，上身胸衣变得光滑又贴身。

当身体挺直，袖子开始膨大并且更加精细了。

血腥皇后玛丽一世穿着英式宫廷风格裙，完全不像她更时尚的妹妹伊丽莎白。

亚麻衬衣

每件精美的长衫下都有一件贴合皮肤的亚麻衬衣在里面。

它有许多熟知的名字：英式罩衫english smock，直筒连衣裙shift，或者衬衣shirt；法式女用宽松无袖内衣french chemise；意大利女用衬衣italian camisia；西班牙女用衬衣spanish camisa；和德式衬衫german hemd。

这是必不可少的打底，因为亚麻可以洗涤，它可以起到隔离身体与外衣（从来不洗）的作用。

当服装开始显露这一层时，领口与袖口的重点增加了。

袖子变得更膨大，为礼服创造更丰富的层次。

亨利八世最后一位妻子凯瑟琳穿着露出亚麻打底的宫廷长裙，配大型石榴藤图案。