#每天读一点服装史# THE RISE OF THE DANDY

1790 -1839

THE RISE OF THE DANDY

Gentlemen in this period prided themselves on the quality of their wool cloth and the tailoring and fit of their clothes.

Earlier interest in elaborate brocaded and embroidered silks disappeared as the upper classes affected a country look.


#每天读一点服装史# THE RISE OF THE DANDY_第1张图片
1790 COUNTRY LOOK

Men’s coats were now of fine wool, in rural colors, and developed waist seams from the 1820s.

Tailors perfected a range of coat styles for different occasions.

Pantaloons and trousers gradually replaced breeches.

The riding crop, cane, or umbrella, together with beaver hat, buckskin gloves, and riding boots, were now essential accessories for the man about town.

Some of the most exacting Regency dressers, such as Beau Brummell, paid extraordinary attention to every last detail of their appearance.

White cotton vests and fine white linen stocks and cravats were a hallmark of their style.


#每天读一点服装史# THE RISE OF THE DANDY_第2张图片
1832

THE MALE PEACOCK

Dandies were the successors of the decadent Macaronis and foppish Incroyables.

They liked to eclipse their female companions with their finery, as shown by this cartoon.

The man struts along like a male peacock, walking on tiptoe to make himself look taller and thinner, a gait that indicates extreme pride in his appearance.


#每天读一点服装史# THE RISE OF THE DANDY_第3张图片

Dandies spent hours tying their stocks and cravats, wore jewels and perfume, had their hair carefully dressed, and were prepared to be laced into corsets to achieve a small waist.

In total, they spent a small fortune on their wardrobe.


#每天读一点服装史# THE RISE OF THE DANDY_第4张图片
1815

1790 -1839

花花公子的时代

这段时期的绅士们以身着上佳质量与合身剪裁的羊毛布料服饰为荣。

早期对于精致绣花与刺绣丝绸的兴趣已经消失,在被上层阶级影响的整个国家穿着风格里可以看得出来。


#每天读一点服装史# THE RISE OF THE DANDY_第5张图片
1807

男士大衣现以细羊毛,乡村色调,以及来自十九世纪20年代的腰线位置为主。

裁缝师完善了适合不同场合的外套款式。

灯笼裤pantaloons与休闲裤trousers逐渐取代了马裤。


#每天读一点服装史# THE RISE OF THE DANDY_第6张图片

骑师短发,手杖或者雨伞,搭配海狸帽,皮草手套和马靴,成为城里人的重要搭配元素。

一些最讲究的摄政穿着者,如布鲁梅尔(Beau Brummell),非常注意他们身上的每一个细节。

白色棉质马甲,白色细亚麻布领巾是他们的标志。


#每天读一点服装史# THE RISE OF THE DANDY_第7张图片
1838

雄性孔雀

丹迪斯是纨绔子弟与花花公子的继承者。

他们的精美装扮常常使身旁的女伴黯然失色,就像很多卡通插图里的那样。

他们趾高气昂大摇大摆的样子就像雄性孔雀一样,踮起脚尖走路会使他们看起来更高更瘦,全然一副自信满满地步态。


#每天读一点服装史# THE RISE OF THE DANDY_第8张图片

花花公子们花整把的时间在他们的领巾,珠宝佩戴和香水上,他们的头发精心修饰,并且为了更小的腰围而穿上紧身胸衣。

总的说来,他们在衣橱里是花了一笔钱的。


#每天读一点服装史# THE RISE OF THE DANDY_第9张图片

你可能感兴趣的:(#每天读一点服装史# THE RISE OF THE DANDY)