#每天读一点服装史# FROM FUNCTION TO IDENTITY

FROM FUNCTION TO IDENTITY

Prehistory - 600CE

For Scythian nomads in Asia, Sumerians in Mesopotamia (now iraq), Nubians in Africa, and the earliest Chinese dynasty, the picture of early clothing continues to emerge from archaeological sites.

Although little cloth survives, there are impressions of prehistoric textiles in pottery, and bone sewing needles, reindeer horn buttons, amber necklaces, and wooden weaving sticks are found.

Where animal and vegetal fibers exist, they suggest that rudimentary clothes, skins, and furs were largely uncut and often unsewn, fixed by a pin or a tie-cord.

When warp-weighted looms came into use, possibly as early as the Neolithic period, a semicircle or T-shaped tunic could be woven.

Textile technology determined the shape and degree of stretch, durability, and warmth of garments.

Stitching was used to strengthen garments, for decoration, and to express identity.

Climate and lifestyle also dictated attire-for example, nomadic steppe men and women wore trousers for riding.

Helmets

The earliest helmets were leather, followed by metal helmets, fashioned first from bronze and then iron.

Ancient helmets could be simple conical or hemispherical shapes, or more elaborate, with additional guards for the nose, cheeks, and neck.

Helmets provided protection, but also an opportunity for decoration and display, with detailing on the metalwork, such as animal motifs, or topped with crests.

Celtic crests could be extremely tall, and warriors were known to fix figural metal pieces, feathers, or horsehair plumes to their helmets.

Some intricately patterned and adorned helmets were created solely for ceremonial purposes.

Jewelry

Bone, stone, and shell jewelry survive from prehistoric times, and were probably worn as marks of status or symbolic protection.

As metalworking evolved, greater sophistication in design emerged.

Gold was prized and items were often buried with the dead, such as the lunulae, collars of beaten gold, c.2000bce, found in Ireland.

--《The definitive history of costume and style》


对于亚洲的塞西亚游牧者,美索不达米亚的苏美尔人(如今的伊拉克),非洲的努比亚人,还有最早朝代的中国人,早期衣着的面貌从考古遗址中逐渐显现出来。

虽然衣物几乎没有留存下来,但是我们仍然能从史前陶器中的纺织品,骨制缝衣针,鹿角扣,琥珀项链还有木质织布棒上找到线索。

一些动物与植物纤维可以看出,那些最初始简单的衣物和皮毛都是未经裁剪和缝纫的,通常用针或绳线捆绑。

当经编织布机开始使用,可能早在新石器时代,一种半圆或T型的外衣就已经可以被织出来了。

纺织技术决定了服装的外形,延展性,耐久性和保暖度。

针脚线迹被用作加强服装装饰和彰显身份的标志。

气候与生活方式也决定着服装形态,比如游牧草原的男性与女性都穿裤装方便骑马。


头盔

最早的头盔是皮质的,之后是金属头盔,金属头盔一开始用青铜制成,后来用铁铸造。

古代头盔是简单的锥形或者半球形,更精致的,会加上对鼻子,脸颊还有脖颈的保护。

头盔提供保护,同时也承担装饰与展示的责任,你可以从那些精细的金属制品上看到动物主题图案或者头盔顶部的羽毛装饰。

凯尔特人的羽毛装饰极其高大,那些勇士们都知道将人物造型金属片,羽毛或者马毛加在他们的头盔上。

某一些有精细图案与装饰的头盔仅仅是为祭拜仪式而制造的。

***凯尔特人,在罗马帝国时期与日耳曼人,斯拉夫人一起被罗马人并称为欧洲的三大蛮族,也是现今欧洲人的代表民族之一。

现今的马恩岛人,苏格兰人,爱尔兰人,威尔士人等都属于凯尔特人。

他们是欧洲最早学会制造和使用铁器和金属装饰品的民族,他们凭借铁质武器战胜了尚处于青铜器时代的名族。

是不是一听名字就不明觉厉呢。


珠宝

史前时期保存下来的骨头、石头和贝壳首饰,很可能曾被作为身份象征或者护身符。

随着金属制品的发展,更多复杂的设计出现了。

黄金是极其珍贵的并且常常拿来陪葬,例如在爱尔兰发现的月牙形的金领项圈。

图片发自App

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