#每天读一点服装史# THE FASHION SPLIT

1450 - 1500

THE FASHION SPLIT

By the middle of the 15th century there were marked regional differences in women's dress.

The medieval standard one-piece tunic moved toward a broad spectrum of fashions in cut and construction.

87As garments began to separate into pieces, dressmaking played with the cut of skirts and sleeves newly liberated from bodices, and incorporated folded collars and laced closure.

Towering headdress and high forehead

Head wear continued trends from earlier in the century but was becoming spectacularly complex.

As the elongated Gothic look disappeared, clothing became softer and wider.

Improved weaving technologies continued to increase textile production and make fabrics more affordable, especially for the growing, prosperous merchant classes.

In Northern Europe fur remained a vital addition for warmth.

Structured support holds up padded roll

HATS AND VEILS

Headdresses often emphasized a woman's high, smooth forehead.

Many women bleached their hair to a fashionable blonde, or plucked their hairline to create a higher forehead.

Cylindrical hats of different lengths were stylish in France, Burgundy, England, and the Low Countries.

They were supported by a small cap or wire structure.

Wiring and pins were used to attach fine veils of silk or linen over the headdress.

Wulsthaube(German headgear)

公元1450 - 1500年

时尚分裂

十五世纪中期，地域的差异在女装中显现。

中世纪标准一片式长袍走向了剪裁与结构的广阔时尚之中。

当服装开始分割成一片一片，服装工匠将半身裙与袖子从连身衣中解放出来，并附上折叠领与蕾丝边。

头饰继续沿袭早期风格，但也变得极其复杂。

发饰与头纱

随着狭长的哥特风格慢慢消失，服装变得更柔软与宽阔。

被改进的编织技术继续提高着纺织生产力，面料价格也越来越合理，特别对于日益增长的丰裕的商人阶层。

在北欧，毛皮依旧是保暖的重要附加品。

整体搭配

帽子与面纱

头饰经常注重女性高而光滑的额头。

许多女性将头发漂白成时髦的金色，或拔高他们的发际线使额头看起来更高。

不同高度的圆柱帽在法国，勃艮第，英格兰和以及欧洲西北沿海地区都很时髦。

它们由小帽子或金属网支撑。

发网和别针用来固定精致的丝绸或亚麻面纱。

德式装饰头巾