[1] AS we sauntered up the steep, narrow cobblestone streets of Cáceres in western Spain, it wasn’t hard to imagine life there in the Middle Ages. Night was falling, and before us were Gothic churches, Roman arches and Moorish towers, glowing in the soft light of lanterns. It was an arresting sight, but our thoughts soon veered elsewhere — to food and the sumptuous meal we were anticipating.
[2] Most people travel to this ancient city for its architectural treasures; my friends and I had come to eat pork.
[3] Minutes later, we faced an encyclopedic list of traditional dishes at El Figón de Eustaquio, a family restaurant with jacketed waiters and white tablecloths. For starters, we had a plate of jamón Ibérico de bellota — cured ham made from acorn-fed pigs, which is the regional specialty — plus a round torta del casar, a creamy sheep’s milk cheese enveloped in a hard curd, and giant locally grown white asparagus.
[4] Though I considered the herbed pork sirloin as an entree, my friend Joan insisted we order the esoteric-sounding secreto Ibérico, or Iberian secret. This simply presented pork filet, we later learned, comes from a special cut near the front leg that’s interspersed with very thin layers of fat. After making all sorts of silly jokes about the curious name of this dish, we ate in complete silence. It was incredibly tender, subtly seasoned and simply delicious.
[5] Cáceres, in the Extremadura region, is in the heart of Spain’s pig country. I had traveled there in search of the world’s best ham, a recent food obsession instigated by Spanish friends. Along the way, I discovered a variety of mouthwatering specialties, learned about unique traditions and met locals with a contagious passion for their culinary heritage.
[6] As people’s knowledge and love of Spanish cuisine grow, delicacies like jamón Ibérico de bellota are entering the international spotlight. This time-honored ham arrived in the United States in 2008 to much fanfare. Sold for about $200 a pound at specialty stores like LaTienda.com, it became the most expensive cold cut in the country. Discerning consumers seem eager to pay this lofty price. This summer, the powerhouse brand 5J (Cinco Jotas) plans to enter the American market, joining the U.S.D.A.-certified producer Embutidos Fermín.
[7] “Iberian pork meat is extraordinary,” Ferran Adrià, the acclaimed chef at El Bulli, a three-Michelin-star restaurant in Catalonia, said in a phone interview. “There’s nothing like it elsewhere in the world. There’s a great difference between a superior ham and all the rest.”
[8] The secret of this superiority rests in the thousands of acres of dehesas — mountainous meadows populated by oak trees — where the indigenous black Iberian pigs have roamed since ancient times. They feed on grass, fruit and, most importantly, acorns that fall every autumn from holm and cork oaks. This gives their meat a unique nutty flavor and a high level of oleic acids, considered a healthy fat.
[9] Spaniards take this food tradition seriously. More than 40 million cured hams were sold last year in Spain, and those derived from Iberian pigs are a particular source of national pride. Local residents started curing meats more than a thousand years ago, eventually turning the craft into an art.
[10] Our sybaritic journey started in Salamanca, 130 miles west of Madrid. This lively city marks the unofficial beginning of the Iberian ham trail, which stretches roughly 300 miles down to Seville. My travel companions — María, an effusive Madrileña who drove expertly over cliff-hanging roads, and Joan, an adventurous Catalan who helped us discover the Iberian secret — were old friends and fellow carnivores.
[11] After a brisk tour of Salamanca’s historic center and its lovely Plaza Mayor, we defied the custom of savoring one’s meals and ordered a few appetizers to go. We had an important appointment 30 miles south, in Guijuelo, a small town of dowdy, low-rise buildings and old-fashioned ham shops. I had arranged to visit several ham producers on our pilgrimage, and this was a required stop: the headquarters of Joselito, considered the Dom Pérignon of hams.
[12] Joselito’s owner, José Gómez, on first impression a laconic man, spoke long and fervently about the 100-year-old empire founded by his great-grandfather. “My customers are not concerned with price; they ask for the best,” he said. “The three key elements are breed, diet and curing.”
[13] While touring the company’s building, I received a master class. Each leg of ham spends about nine days covered in salt; it hangs for weeks in winter temperatures, so the salt penetrates deeply, then for months in summer heat, prompting a “sweating” process by which the fat further permeates the muscle fibers. This happens in cavernous chambers devoid of machinery, where windows are opened or shut depending on winds and humidity. When summer ends, the hams are moved to a dark cellar where they age for two or more years, intensifying their aroma and flavor, much like a fine wine.
[14] Joselito uses only hogs that are 100 percent Iberian. A whole leg, aged three years, starts at $1,000 in Spain, about $50 a pound. (Not all hams called Ibérico are acorn-fed. The label must include the word bellota.) In spite of so much tantalizing talk amid mesmerizing rows of sweet-smelling hams, no amuse-bouche was offered, and we left with empty stomachs. It was only later, savoring our memorable dinner in Cáceres, that we quelled our cravings.
[15] After a good night’s rest at the NH Palacio de Oquendo, a renovated 16th-century palace in the old quarter, we had breakfast alfresco on the edge of the main plaza. Nothing beats a good cortado, the strong Spanish coffee, before a long drive.
[16] The curvy, oak-lined southern roads led us to Jabugo, a village of plain white houses that lives and breathes jamón. There I met Maximiliano Portes, who in 2002 created the online brand Maximiliano Jabugo. His customers, he said, are everyday people who order airtight, pre-sliced cold cuts. Modern marketing notwithstanding, the only way to achieve high quality is through a slow, artisanal curing process. Mr. Portes’s hams hang in a thick-walled cellar, where meat has been cured since 1900. In fact, Jabugo’s quiet cobblestone streets, dotted with modest bars where local workers meet for afternoon drinks, showed no signs of modernity.
[17] As we headed back north to Badajoz, a heavy rain slowed us. By the time we reached Rocamador, a rural hotel and restaurant in a 500-year-old former monastery, it was 11 p.m. and our stomachs were growling. Thanks to the Spanish custom of late dining, the kitchen was still open.
[18] Though I was tempted by pork cheeks in a creamy vegetable sauce, for a change of pace I ordered thyme-seasoned suckling lamb with roasted potatoes. A glass of hearty Extremadura red was the perfect complement. Back in my country-chic room, aided by a lullaby of rattling leaves, I fell into a deep sleep.
[19] In the morning I met Carlos Tristancho, owner of the hotel and surrounding land. He is a partner at País de Quercus, a company that sells organic meats to distinguished restaurants like Mugaritz and El Celler de Can Roca. A former actor, director and producer, Mr. Tristancho is an irrepressible, middle-age character who talks about love, sex and the soul the way most people discuss the weather.
[20] During a rambling and wildly entertaining conversation, he spoke passionately of the importance of preserving Spain’s estimated seven million acres of dehesa. “This is an example of sustainability; some of the oaks here are 1,000 years old,” he said. Ideally, each animal needs six acres to roam, he said; if this balance is not respected, the ecosystem could be in danger
[21] Soon we were headed to Madrid, laughing about how we had blushed at Mr. Tristancho’s bawdy comments. But while our road trip was ending, my food quest persisted. For various reasons, I had not yet sampled a Joselito ham; I knew I could not leave Spain until I had.
[22] A few hours before my flight to New York, I walked to a gourmet shop on upscale Serrano Street. The man behind the counter carefully carved a few slices with a long knife and handed me a bite. He raised his eyebrows inquisitively. A pungent, slightly sweet and nutty flavor filled my mouth as the fat immediately melted away, revealing sea-salted, tender strings of meat. I can still taste it if I close my eyessaunter /ˈsɔːn.tər/ verb [ I usually + adv/prep ]to walk in a slow and relaxed way, often in no particular directionHe sauntered by, looking very pleased with himself.
cobblestone 鹅卵石Cáceres 卡塞雷斯（西班牙城市）the Middle Ages 中世纪Gothic /ˈgɒθ.ɪk/ adj 哥特式的of or like a style of building which was common in Europe between the 12th and the 16th centuries, and which has pointed arches and windows, high ceilings and tall, thin columnsRoman /ˈrəʊ.mən/ adj 古罗马的relating to the city of Rome and its empire in ancient timesarch /ɑːtʃ/ noun [ C ] 拱a structure consisting of a curved top on two supports, which holds the weight of something above itMoorish 摩尔人的glow /gləʊ/ verb [ I ] 发光lantern /ˈlæn.tən/ noun [ C ] 灯笼arresting /əˈres.tɪŋ/ adjvery attractive in a way that attracts a lot of attentionveer /vɪə r / verb [ I + adv/prep ] to change directionsumptuous /ˈsʌmp.tju.əs/ adjluxurious and showing that you are richanticipate /ænˈtɪs.ɪ.peɪt/ verb [ T ]to imagine or expect that something will happen, sometimes taking action in preparation for it happeningencyclopedic /ɪnˌsaɪ.kləˈpiː.dɪk/ adj 百科全书式的，知识渊博的jamón Ibérico de bellota 橡果伊比利亚火腿cure /kjʊə r / verb [ T ]to treat food, tobacco, etc. with smoke or salt, etc. in order to stop it decayingacorn-fed 喂食橡木果specialty 特产asparagus /əˈspær.ə.gəs/ noun [ U ] 笋sirloin (steak) /ˌsɜː.lɔɪnˈsteɪk/ noun [ C or U ]the best meat from the lower back of a cowentrée /ˈɒn.treɪ/ noun [ C ] US the main dish of a mealesoteric /ˌiː.sə ʊˈter.ɪk/ adj 深奥的，只有内行才懂的very unusual; understood or liked by only a small number of people, especially those with special knowledgeinterspersed with sth 大量点缀着having something in several places among something elseobsession /əbˈseʃ. ə n/ noun [ C or U ]something or someone that you think about all the timeinstigate /ˈɪn.stɪ.geɪt/ verb [ T ] formal 煽动to cause an event or situation to happen by making a set of actions or a formal process beginmouth-watering /ˈmaʊθˌwɔː.tə.rɪŋ/ adjdescribes food that looks as if it will taste goodcontagious /kənˈteɪ.dʒəs/ adj 赋予感染力的culinary /ˈkʌl.ɪ.n ə r.i/ adj slightly formalconnected with cooking or kitchensdelicacy /ˈdel.ɪ.kə.si/ noun 珍馐[ C ] something especially rare or expensive that is good to eatspotlight /ˈspɒt.laɪt/ noun [ C ] 聚光灯time-honoured /ˈtaɪmˌɒn.əd/ adj [ before noun ] 历史悠久的A time-honoured tradition, practice, or method is respected because it has been done or used in the same way for many yearsto much fanfare 大张旗鼓discerning /dɪˈsɜː.nɪŋ/ adj formal approvingshowing good judgment, especially about style and qualitylofty /ˈlɒf.ti/ adj formal highpowerhouse /ˈpaʊə.haʊs/ noun [ C usually singular ]a country, organization or person with a lot of influence, power or energyindigenous /ɪnˈdɪdʒ.ɪ.nəs/ adj 土生土长的naturally existing in a place or country rather than arriving from another placeacre /ˈeɪ.kə r / noun [ C ] 英亩dehesa 【西语单词】，指的是伊比利亚猪最后生活的橡木林roam /rəʊm/ verb [ I + adv/prep T ]to move about or travel, especially without a clear idea of what you are going to doacorn /ˈeɪ.kɔːn/ noun [ C ] 橡木果holm oak 圣栎cork oak（欧）栓皮栎oleic acid 油酸Spaniard/ˈspæn.jəd/ noun [ C ] a person from Spainderive from sth phrasal verb [ often passive ]to come from somethingsybaritic /ˌsɪb. ə rˈɪt.ɪk/ adj 贪图享乐的,骄奢淫逸的Salamanca 萨拉曼卡（西班牙城市）trail /treɪl/ noun[ C ] a path through the countryside, often made or used for a particular purposeroughly /ˈrʌf.li/ adv approximately 大约Seville 塞维利亚（西班牙城市）effusive /ɪˈfjuː.sɪv/ adj formalexpressing welcome, approval or pleasure in a way that shows very strong feelingMadrileña 【西语单词】马德里人（女性）cliff-hanging 扣人心弦的Catalan 加泰罗尼亚人fellow /ˈfel.əʊ/ adj [ before noun ]describes someone who has the same job or interests as you, or is in the same situation as youcarnivore /ˈkɑː.nɪ.vɔː r / noun [ C ] an animal that eats meatbrisk /brɪsk/ adj quick, energetic and active 麻利的defy /dɪˈfaɪ/ verb [ T ]to refuse to obey a person, decision, law, situation, etc.savour UK , US savor /ˈseɪ.və r / verb [ T ]to enjoy food or an experience slowly, in order to enjoy it as much as possibleGuijuelo 西班牙著名火腿产地dowdy /ˈdaʊ.di/ adj disapproving 陈旧的pilgrimage /ˈpɪl.grɪ.mɪdʒ/ noun [ C or U ] 朝圣之旅Joselito 小侯赛（西班牙最著名火腿品牌）Dom Pérignon 唐培里侬（法国著名年份香槟）first impression 第一印象laconic /ləˈkɒn.ɪk/ adj formalusing very few words to express what you meanfervently /ˈfɜː.v ə nt.li/ adv 热心地;热诚地breed /briːd/ noun [ C ]a particular type of animal or plantpenetrate /ˈpen.ɪ.treɪt/ verb 渗入[ I or T ] to move into or through somethingpermeate /ˈpɜː.mi.eɪt/ verb [ I usually + adv/prep T ] formal 渗透to spread through something and be present in every part of itcavernous chamber 风干室be devoid of sthto lack or be without something that is necessary or usualhog /hɒg/ noun [ C ]US a pig, especially one which is allowed to grow large so that it can be eatentantalizing /ˈtæn.tə.laɪ.zɪŋ/ adj 撩人的mesmerizing /ˈmez.mə.raɪ.zɪŋ/ adj 令人着迷的very attractive, in a mysterious way, making you want to keep lookingamuse-bouche 餐前开胃菜quell /kwel/ verb [ T ] 平息to stop something, especially by using forcecraving /ˈkreɪ.vɪŋ/ noun [ C ] 渴望a strong or uncontrollable wantalfresco /ˌælˈfres.kəʊ/ adj , adv(especially of food and eating) outsidebeat verb beat, beateninformal to be more enjoyable than another activity or experiencecortado 【西语单词】小杯浓缩咖啡加少许牛奶Jabugo【西语单词】西班牙最著名的火腿产地airtight /ˈeə.taɪt/ adj 密封的completely closed so that no air can get in or outpre-sliced 事先切好的notwithstanding /ˌnɒt.wɪðˈstæn.dɪŋ/ prep, adv formaldespite the fact or thing mentionedmonastery /ˈmɒn.ə.stri/ noun [ C ] 修道院a building in which monks live and worshipgrowl /graʊl/ verb [ I ] 怒气冲冲地低声说to make a low rough sound, usually in angersuckling /ˈsʌk.lɪŋ/ noun [ C ] , adj [ before noun ] old-fashioned(an animal that is) still young enough to be drinking milk from its motherhearty /ˈhɑː.ti/ adj 强劲的enthusiastic, energetic, and often loudly expressedchic /ʃiːk/ noun [ U ] 风格rattle /ˈræt.l̩/ /ˈræt̬-/ verb[ I or T ] to (cause to) make a noise like a series of knocksirrepressible /ˌɪr.ɪˈpres.ə.bl̩/ adjfull of energy and enthusiasm; impossible to stoprambling /ˈræm.blɪŋ/ adj too long and confusedsustainability /səˌsteɪ.nəˈbɪl.ɪ.ti/ noun [ U ] 可持续性blush /blʌʃ/ verb [ I ]to become pink in the face, usually from embarrassmentbawdy /ˈbɔː.di/ adj containing humorous remarks about sexpersist /pəˈsɪst/ verb [ I ]If an unpleasant feeling or situation persists, it continues to existupmarket /ˌʌpˈmɑː.kɪt/ adj , adv ( mainly US upscale) mainly UKdescribes goods and products that are of very high quality and intended to be bought by people who are quite richinquisitively /ɪnˈkwɪz.ɪ.tɪv.li/ adv 过分好奇地pungent /ˈpʌn.dʒ ə nt/ adjdescribes a very strong smell or taste, sometimes one that is unpleasantly strong