#每天读一点服装史# TOWARD THE SUIT

1685 - 1720

TOWARD THE SUIT

The silhouette of the coat became increasingly exaggerated, worn tight on the waist and flaring to full pleated skirts below.

Decorative braiding was applied along the center front closure, pockets, and cuffs.

Sleeves became longer and tighter, but cuffs remained large.

The waistcoat, still fit close to the body, was now worn shorter than the coat.

While the waistcoat front was richly decorated, the back was frequently made of plainer fabric since it was rarely seen.

Breeches were worn narrower and closer to the leg, fastening just above or below the knee.

They were made from the same material as the coat or from a plain black fabric -- the forerunner of the suit.

From the 1690s large ornamental buttons became popular on pockets with decorative flaps and on cuffs as well as forming the front closure.

These buttons could be made from decorative metal or from the same fabric as the coat and finished with embroidery.

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The coat, waistcoat, and breeches were now known as a suit.


CLOTHES SELLER

Expensive garments were made to measure, but there were many ways of buying cheaper clothing.

Basic garments such as shirts and breeches could be bought in towns and cities from large clothing warehouses, and secondhand garments could be purchased in markets or from clothes sellers.

These traders carried their wares around the streets, ready to sell to any interested customers.

In order to be able to carry as much stock as possible, this clothes seller wears his hats piled on top of his head, allowing customers to instantly recognize his trade.

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Garter robes, for those awarded the UK's highest honor.


公元1685-1720年

套装追求

外套轮廓开始变得夸张,腰部绑带制造出充满褶子的裙装效果。

装饰性编织适用于前衣襟处,口袋处与袖口处。

袖子变得更长更紧,但袖口仍旧很大。

背心仍旧贴身,现在比外套要短。

背心前面装饰丰富,背后则通常由较为平淡的面料制作,因为一般看不到。

马裤变得更窄更贴合腿部,固定在膝盖上方或下方。

它们都由外套相同的材料制作而成,也可以是纯黑色面料 -- 这是西装的前身。

自十七世纪90年代起,流行将大型纽扣装饰在口袋翻盖上,袖口上以及衣服前衣襟上。

这些纽扣可以是装饰金属或者与外套同款的面料加以刺绣制作而成。

三角帽沿上镶金边,大袖口,口袋翻盖袖口与衣襟的大纽扣,都是当时的典型装饰。


服装商人

昂贵服饰是为了衡量阶层,但仍旧有许多方法购买相对便宜的服装。

基本服饰例如衬衫,马裤能够从城镇的大型服装卖场购买,二手服装能够从市场或者服装商人那里购买。

这些贸易者带着他们的货物来到街上,准备销售给每一位感兴趣的顾客。

为了能够携带尽可能多的货物,这些商人头上顶着一堆帽子,让顾客可以立刻辨识他们。

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售卖旧披风与帽子的商人

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