#每天读点服装史89篇# EVENING AND TEA GOWNS

1900 - 1914

EVENING AND TEA GOWNS

Ladies of the Edwardian era (1901-10), whether young or old, bared their décolletage and upper arms when wearing evening dresses, but encased their lower arms in long evening gloves.

Sumptuous fabrics such as silk satin, damask, and chiffon, usually in light, soft colors, were decorated with lace, rhinestones, and spangles, often highlighting a part of the body or the face.


SATIN EVENING GOWN 1900



The gowns’ many layers made them difficult, if not impossible, to put on without help.

Often made of materials that could easily be damaged, evening wear required decorous deportment.


EMPIRE LINE 1909

Tea gowns had emerged in the 1880s and continued to be a popular choice for receiving guests in the afternoon.

The gowns were often made up of many layers of soft, light fabrics that were flattering but utterly impractical.


EVENING GOWN 1913



THE GIBSON GIRL

In the 1890s the American illustrator Charles Dana Gibson drew tall, slender-waisted, confident young women with layers of softly waved hair piled high on their heads.


图片发自App



The “Gibson Girl” set an almost unobtainable beauty standard for the next two decades.

The actress Camille Clifford (above) won a competition to find a living version of Gibson’s creation.


Camille Clifford



1900 - 1914

晚宴与茶歇礼服

爱德华时代(1901-10)的女士们,无论年纪长幼,穿着晚礼服时都会露出他们的后背与上臂,下臂则会佩戴一副长长的晚宴手套。

奢华面料如丝绸,锦缎与雪纺等,通常采用轻盈柔和的色调,以花边,水钻以及亮片作装饰,突显脸部或身体的某个部分。


珠片蕾丝锦缎礼服1900


多层次的晚装令装扮者需要借以他人帮助才能完成穿戴。

礼服材料很容易受到损坏,所以晚装穿着者需要不时注意他们的举止仪态。


高腰线礼服1909


图片发自App


图片发自App

茶歇礼服在十九世纪80年代出现,在下午继续招待客人成为非常受欢迎的选择。

这些礼服通常以柔软轻盈的多层面料制成,表面看起来非常美妙但其实并不适合实际穿着。


AFTERNOON GOWN 1913


吉布森女孩

十九世纪90年代,美国插画家查尔斯 达娜 吉布森Charles Dana Gibson描绘出高挑,细腰,充满自信的年轻女子,他们的头上堆盘着充满层次感的柔软头发。


图片发自App



“吉布森女孩”树立了一种在接下来20年里,几乎无法超越的美丽标准。

女演员卡米尔 克利福德(Camille Clifford)赢得了那场寻找生活中吉布森女孩的比赛。


卡米尔 克利福德

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