#每天读一点服装96篇# ROBES DE STYLE

1920 - 1929

ROBES DE STYLE

In stark contrast to the streamlined dress of the “modern woman” with its straight lines, often emphasized by geometric decoration, a much softer and more romantic silhouette survived beyond the late 1910s.

The most prominent feature of this feminine style was a very full skirt that sometimes required support by the means of side-hoops — stiff understructures shaped like small baskets and worn over the hips.

The Paris couturier Jeanne Lanvin is most associated with this type of dress, which was particularly suitable for younger ladies.

The so-called robe de style was inspired by 18th-century gowns and was more forgiving than androgynous 1920s shapes.

The vast expanse of the skirt provided a large, blank canvas that could be filled with embroidery, artificial flowers, lace, and feathers.

DOLLY SISTERS

The Hungarian-born twin dancers Roszika and Janszieka Deutsch were known less for their stage act than for their matching outfits, often provided by Jean Patou, and their spectacular private lives acted out on the French Riviera, in nightclubs and casinos.

The ostrich feather skirts of their windmill costumes echo the robe de style silhouette.

FANS

The 1920s probably saw the last flowering of the fan as a fashionable evening accessory.

Restaurants and nightclubs used printed paper fans for advertising, and perfume companies doused them in scent.

Large fans made of ostrich feathers were particularly popular since the plumes could be dyed any color — to match or contrast with the wearer’s outfit.

As here, ostrich feathers were also used in their natural colors.

1920 - 1929

长袍派风格

形成鲜明对比的是直线条礼服与流线型“摩登女郎”，通常强调几何装饰，这种更柔软更罗曼提克的轮廓在二十世纪10年代后幸存下来。

女性风格中最突出的特征是一种有时需要侧边支撑的非常饱满的裙子，坚固的底部结构形状就像小篮子，并且穿戴在整个臀部上。

巴黎时装屋的Jeanne Lanvin最擅长这种类型的裙装，它们特别适合年轻女士们。

所谓的长袍派风格，灵感来自十八世纪长袍，当时的款式对男女都同样适穿。

宽大的裙子为刺绣，人造花朵，花边与羽毛装饰的设计提供了大量空间。

洋娃娃姐妹花

匈牙利出生的双胞胎舞者Roszika与Janszieka因为她们的双胞胎服装造型而名声大噪，服装由Jean Patou提供，她们壮观的私人现场演出通常举办在法国里维埃拉，夜总会与赌场。

而她们的鸵鸟羽毛裙也是当时长袍风格服饰的缩影。

扇子

二十世纪20年代，可能是扇子作为配饰在时尚晚宴上出现的最后一瞥。

餐厅和夜总会用印刷纸质扇子作广告宣传，而香水公司则用香氛浸泡它们。

由鸵鸟羽毛制成的大型折扇非常受欢迎，因为羽毛可以染成任何想要的颜色来搭配或对比穿着者的服饰。

同样，鸵鸟羽毛也常使用原始的颜色。