2017-03-03 WSET 3 葡萄酒的门徒
2 生长环境
In order to survive, the vine must be able to take all it needs from its surrounding environment. Warmth is of fundamental importance: without it the vine will not grow. Once the growing season has started the vine uses sunlight and chlorophyll in its leaves to combine carbon dioxide (CO2) and water to produce glucose and oxygen, a process known as photosynthesis. The vine uses the glucose to power its cells and combines it with the nutrients it extracts from the soil to support its growth and, most importantly, to ripen its grapes. The oxygen is lost through the leaves.
为了生存，葡萄植株必需从它周围的环境中获取它所需要的所有资源。温度具有根本的重要性，没有适度的温度葡萄植株就无法生长。一旦进入生长季，葡萄植株会利用
阳光以及叶片中的叶绿素将二氧化碳和水转变成葡萄糖和氧气，这一过程就是光合作用。葡萄植株用葡萄糖为细胞提供能量，并将葡萄糖与从土壤中摄取的营养物质结合，这满足了植株的生长，更为重要的是使葡萄果实得以成熟。光合作用时，氧气则通过叶片释放出来。
CO2 is always in plentiful supply but the degree of availability of all the other ingredients influences all aspects of the vine’s annual cycle. Because the vine is unable to move in search of better conditions, the climate, weather and soil in the vineyard directly affect the quantity and quality of fruit a vine is able to produce.
二氧化碳的供给量总是很充足，但是所有其他成分的供给量都会影响到葡萄每年生长周期中的各个阶段。因为葡萄植株不具备主动移动并寻找较好环境的能力，所以气候、天气以及葡萄园的土壤情况都会直接影响植株结出果实的数量和品质。
CLIMATE AND WEATHER
A region’s climate is defined as the annual pattern of temperature, sunlight and rainfall averaged out over several years. The climate does not change from one year to the next, though it can alter over a period of decades. A region’s weather, on the other hand, is the annual variation that happens relative to the climatic average. Some regions experience greater variation in these patterns than others. For example, the amount and timing of rainfall in Bordeaux can vary quite considerably: in 2007 the region was cool, cloudy and wet during most of August, whereas in 2003 high temperatures and near drought conditions were experienced. The weather in other regions, such as the Central Valley in California, is far more predictable. Here it can be relied upon to be hot and dry from one year to the next.
气候和天气
气候是指一个地区多年来平均每年的温度、阳光以及降雨量所组成的终年模式。尽管气候在几十年间有可能改变，但不会每年都变化。而相对于来说，一个地区的天气情况每年都会变化。一些地区的天气变化程度会比另一些地区更加剧烈。例如，波尔多地区的降雨量和降雨时间可能变化相当大：2007年8月，大部分时候这里都是凉爽、多云而潮湿的天气，而在2003年的8月这里却经历了高温，近乎干旱的天气。相比之下，一些地区的天气更稳定，例如加利福尼亚的中央山谷，这里几乎每年都是炎热而干燥的天气。
TMEPERATURE
What a vine needs
If the temperature is bellow 10℃ it is too cold for the vine’s cells to function. This is why vines are dormant in winter. As long as there is enough water for photosynthesis, the vine’s activity, including photosynthesis, will increase with the temperature until it reaches in excess of 22℃. Above this temperature, the vine’s cells start to consume more sugar than photosynthesis can produce. As temperatures increase beyond this temperature, all vine activity will slow and eventually stop, even with sufficient water. This is why in hot drought conditions grapes can fail to ripen. Extreme heat and insufficient water can weaken and kill vines.
温度
葡萄植株的需求
如果温度低于10℃，葡萄植株的细胞会因为太冷而无法正常运转，这也是葡萄植株会在冬季休眠的原因。只要光合作用所需的水分供应充足，在温度不超过22℃的情况下，包括光合作用在内的葡萄植株的活动会随着温度的上升而变得活跃。超过22℃后，葡萄细胞消耗的糖分就开始多于光合作用产生的糖分，随着温度继续升高，即使水分供给非常充足，葡萄植株所有的活动会逐渐变缓，直至停止。这就是为什么在炎热干旱的地区葡萄不能成熟的原因。极端的热量以及水分的缺失会使葡萄植株变得虚弱，甚至导致植株死亡。
In order to ripen grapes successfully the vine needs the average temperature in the growing season to be between about 16℃ and 21℃. Not all varieties need the same amount of warmth throughout the growing season. This is why Riesling can thrive in cool locations where Grenache would not be able to ripen its grapes. It is the temperature more than the availability of sunlight that determines which grape varieties can thrive in a given region.
为了使果实胜利成熟，葡萄植株在生长季内所需的平均温度大约在16℃到21℃间。在生长季内，并不是所有的葡萄品种都需要相同的热量。这也是为什么雷司令可以在凉爽的地区茁壮成长，而在那里歌海娜的果实却无法陈熟。相比阳光，温度更多程度上决定了一个地区适合种什么样的葡萄品种。
Temperature has an impact on each stage of the vine’s growth cycle. In cooler regions, budburst occurs later. The shortened growing season could mean the grapes fail to ripen fully. Flowering and fruit set can be disrupted, and this reduces yields. If the temperature is cool during ripening, the grapes retain more acid and accumulate less sugar. Black grapes may struggle to reach physiological ripeness and will produce wines that are overly astringent and herbaceous. Conversely, warmer conditions lead to earlier budburst, a potentially longer growing season, accelerated ripening and accelerated loss of acidity, ripening of tannins and development of flavours. White varieties can cope in cooler climates because their tannins don’t need to ripen and they can produce a balanced wine with higher acid levels. Black varieties require moderate to warm climates that allow them to fully ripen their flavour, colour and tannins.
温度对葡萄生长周期的每一阶段都有着非常重要的作用。在较凉爽地区，芽会萌发的较晚。生长季缩短可能意味着葡萄无法完全成熟。开花和坐果的过程有可能被打断，这就导致减产。如果成熟的过程中温度较低，葡萄果实中会保留更多的酸而积累较少的糖。红葡萄品种要想成熟可能很困难，用这样的葡萄酿出的酒就会比较涩且植物味明显。相反，温暖的气候条件会使芽较早萌发，也意味着生长季可能延长，这会加速葡萄的成熟，加快酸度的消失和单宁的熟化，以及更快地形成葡萄的各种风味。白葡萄品种可以适应较为凉爽的气候条件，因为它们的单宁不需要熟化，就可以酿造出酸度较高、具有平衡性的葡萄酒。红葡萄品种需要在温和或是温暖的气候条件下，才能使葡萄中的风味、颜色和单宁完全成熟。
Factors Affecting the Annual Temperature
Latitude – Although the other factors listed below can locally override this trend in some parts of the world, generally temperatures are lower the further away a vineyard is from the equator. To meet the vine’s temperature needs and its preference for a dormant period, most vineyards lie between the latitudes of 30°and 50°north and south of the equator. However, factors other than latitude can make an area suitable for viticulture outside these limits.
影响年平均气温的因素
纬度 –尽管下面列举的其它因素在某些地区可能超过纬度对温度的影响，但是总体而言，葡萄园距离赤道越远温度就会越低。为了满足葡萄植株对温度的需求以及它休眠期的喜好性，大多数葡萄园位于南北纬30°到50°之间。然而，纬度之以外的其他因素也可能会使该纬度范围外的地区同样适合葡萄栽培。
Altitude – The mean annual temperature drops by about 0.6℃ with every 100 metre increase in altitude. This means that regions that might otherwise be too hot, such as Cafayate in northern Argentina, can successfully cultivate vines despite their latitude.
海拔 – 海拔每升高100米，年平均温度就会下降0.6℃。这也就意味着有些产区所在的纬度本来为炎热地区，却因为海拔的缘故，也可以成功地种植葡萄，例如阿根廷北部的Cafayate 卡法亚特。
Ocean Currents – Oceans can warm or cool the air above them. The major currents transport large volumes of warm or cool water across the surface of the planet, leading to local warming or cooling. The Humboldt Current off Chile and the Benguela Current off South Africa cool these regions that might otherwise be too hot for viticulture whereas the Gulf Stream warms the north west of Europe that might otherwise be too cold.
洋流 – 海洋可以使它上方的空气变得温暖或是凉爽。在地球表面大范围传送温暖或凉爽海水的主要洋流，可以使一个地区变得温暖或者凉爽。从智利出发的 Humboldt Current 秘鲁洋流和从南非出发的 Benguela Current 本格拉洋流使这些地区的气候变得凉爽，否则这些地区会由于过于炎热而不适合种植葡萄，另外墨西哥湾流使得欧洲西北部那些原本可能过于寒冷的地区变得温暖，因而适合葡萄种植。
Fog – Fog can help cool an area that may otherwise struggle to produce high-quality grapes. This is a particularly important feature in many top vineyard areas in California as well as Casablanca in Chile.
雾 – 雾可以使一个地区的气温变得凉爽，否则这些地区要产出高品质的葡萄就会非常困难。这一点对加利福尼亚和智利 Casablanca 卡萨布兰卡的一些顶级葡萄园来说尤其重要。
Soil – Soils that are either dark in colour or that have a high stone and rock content absorb and re-radiate more of the sun’s heat than lighter coloured soils. This re-radiated warmth can be critical for ripening fruit in cool climate. Soils with high water content require more energy to warm up, and conduct heat from the vine more quickly than dry soils. This can delay budburst.
土壤 – 与颜色较浅的土壤相比，颜色较深或石块和岩石较多的土壤可以更多地吸收和再辐射来自太阳的热量。在凉爽的气候条件下，这些再辐射的热量对于果实的成熟起了极其关键的作用。含水量较高的土壤需要更多的能量才能变暖，从葡萄藤疏导热量也会比干燥的土壤更快。这可能推迟芽的萌发。
Aspect – The direction in which a slope faces is known as its aspect. The vineyards with an aspect facing the equator receive the most heat. In the northern hemisphere south facing slopes get the most warmth whereas in the southern hemisphere it is north facing slopes. This phenomenon is especially important in cool climates where the extra warmth can make the difference between a vine being able to ripen a crop or not. Steeper slopes benefit even more from this effect. This can be seen very clearly in the best vineyards of the Mosel which not only have the most favourable aspect but are also very steep.
朝向 – 斜坡面向的方位被称为朝向，面朝赤道方向的葡萄园可以接收到最多的热量，在北半球，那些朝南的斜坡可以获得最多的热量，而在南半球，那些朝北的斜坡才能获得更多的热量。这种现象在凉爽气候条件下的地区会尤其重要，因为额外的热量差别决定了葡萄植株是否能结出成熟的果实。陡峭的山坡更得益于这个效应，这种现象可以在摩泽尔最出色的葡萄园非常明显的看到，那里的葡萄园有着最有利的朝向并且位置非常陡峭。
Factors Affecting Continentality
The temperature difference between winter and summer is referred to as continentality and the main factor that can reduce the extent of the variation in temperatures between the summer and winter months is the proximity of large bodies of water; either the sea or large lakes. Large bodies of water heat up and cool down slower than landmasses. Therefore in the winter they have a warming effect and in the summer they have a cooling effect on the surrounding air. Inland, the temperature difference between winter and summer can be significant, whereas in areas close to large bodies of water the seasonal temperature range is far less. For example, without the influence of Lake Ontario viticulture would not be possible in the Niagara Peninsula.
影响大陆度的因素
冬季和夏季的温度差异程度被称为大陆度，能够降低夏季与冬季月份温度差异变化程度的主要因素取决于该地区是否临近大面积的水域，例如海洋或是大的湖泊。大面积水域升温和降温都要比陆地缓慢。因此，对于其周围的空气来说，大面积水域在冬季起到使空气升温的效应，夏季则有降温的效应。在内陆地区，冬季和夏季的温差会相当大，然而在与大面积水域相邻近的地区，季节性的温差变化就会小很多。例如，如果没有 Lake Ontario 安大略湖的影响， Niagara Peninsula 尼亚加拉半岛就无法栽培葡萄。
Factors Affecting Diurnal Range
As well as moderating the temperature differences between summer and winter, seas and lakes are the biggest factor that can reduce the temperature difference between day and night (the diurnal range). Huge bodies of water are required to have an effect from summer to winter, but relatively small bodies of water, such as smaller rivers and lakes, can hold enough warmth to keep the vineyard warm overnight and provide cooling breezes during the day. The level of cloud cover (generally higher nearer seas and lakes), also influences diurnal range, because temperatures drop more quickly on clear nights, when there is no insulating blanket of cloud, and rise more slowly on cloudy days, when sunlight cannot penetrate the ground so directly. Cool nights help the vine rest and extend the growing season. They also help slow the loss of volatile aromas from the grapes during ripening. Warm nights accelerate ripening, particularly the production of sugar. Wines from regions with high diurnal ranges tend to be fresher and more aromatic; those from regions with smaller diurnal ranges tend to be more full-bodied.
影响昼夜温差的元素
海洋和湖泊不仅可以调节冬季与夏季的温差，还是减少白天与晚上温差（昼夜温差）的最大因素。大面积水域可以减少冬夏温差，而那些较小的水域例如河流和湖泊，可以贮藏足够的热量使葡萄园整夜保持温暖，并在白天带来凉爽的微风。云层遮盖程度（通常在海洋和湖泊周围比较高）也会影响昼夜温差，因为在没有云层隔离的晴朗夜晚，温度会下降得更为迅速，而在有云层的白天，由于阳光无法直接穿透到地面，温度也会上升得更加缓慢。凉爽的夜间环境有助于葡萄的休息，并延长生长季，还能减缓葡萄果实中的挥发性香气在成熟过程中的流失。温暖的夜间环境则会加速葡萄的成熟，特别是糖的生产。生长在昼夜温差较大的地区的葡萄酿成的酒通常会更加的清爽和芳香；而那些来自昼夜温差较小的地区所产的酒通常酒体就会更加的饱满。
Although high continentality and high diurnal range are often found together, there are many exceptions. The Napa Valley has low continentality (due to proximity to the Pacific), but high diurnal range (due to the alternation of on-shore and off-shore breezes and the effects of fog).
尽管较显著的大陆度与较大的昼夜温差经常同时出现，但还是有许多例外。Napa Valley 纳帕谷的大陆度并不显著（因为距离太平洋很近），但是昼夜温差非常大（因为受交替出现的向岸风和离岸风以及雾的影响）。
Temperature Hazards
If temperatures fall below -20℃ (Winter Freeze) then the vine can be seriously damaged or killed. The part of the vine most as risk is the graft callus. In areas at risk from extreme cold, earth can used to cover up and protect the callus. In some extremely continental regions, the whole vine is buried over the winter.
温度灾害
如果温度低于零下20℃（冬季冻害），葡萄就会遭受严重的伤害，甚至会死亡。最容易遭遇冻害的部位是嫁接部分的愈伤组织。在一些容易遭遇极度寒冷的地区，可以用土覆盖愈伤组织来保护其免受伤害。在一些极端的大陆性气候地区，整株的葡萄都会被埋到地下来过冬。
Spring Frosts occur when cold air below 0℃ collects at ground level, freezing any water vapour that has settled on surfaces. If this happens to newly burst buds or shoots it kills them. The damage done and the impact on yields can be enormous and in regions that are at risk growers go to great lengths to minimise the risk. There are four main forms of protection:①Burnersmay be placed throughout the vineyard and lit if frost is forecast. The heat they generate creates movement in the air preventing the cold air from settling and causing the frost. Smudge pots are a well-known type of burner that also create smoke. The smoke acts as insulation keeping ground heat in. ②Wind machines are widely deployed in vineyards noted for frosts. The most common form looks like a large fan that draws warm air from above to keep the temperature at ground level above freezing. Some modern wind machines incorporate heaters.③Sprinklesmay be used to spray water onto the vines. As the water freezes, it releases some latent heat into the plant tissue protecting the buds and shoots. Thoughtful ④vineyard design can also minimise the risk of frosts. Because cold air sinks to the lowest point it can find, it is best to plant vineyards on slopes and avoid depressions in which cold air can collect. Vineyards planted on the middle of the slope are noticeably less at risk from frost damage than low-lying areas. Vines can also be trained high to avoid the worst of the cold air.
春季当地表温度低于0℃时，冷空气可以将停留在地表附近的水蒸气冻结，从而形成 春季冻霜。如果霜冻发生在新萌发的芽或新枝上，会造成这些组织的死亡。由于霜冻造成的伤害以及对产量的影响都极大，在易遭受霜冻的地区，种植者会竭尽全力去降低霜冻的风险。主要有四种预防措施：在整个葡萄园的各个地方放置燃烧器，在霜冻预报的时候点燃它们。燃烧器产生的热量使得空气流动起来，阻止了冷空气停留形成霜冻。熏烟罐是常见的一种燃烧器，它产生的烟雾作为隔离可以减少地面热量的流失。风机 也广泛地应用在葡萄园霜冻的防范上。最常见的风机看起来像巨大的风扇，吸入上方温暖的空气，将地面的温度保持在冻结温度以上。一些现代的风机还结合了加热装置。喷洒器 可以用来给葡萄喷洒水滴。当水结冰时，它可以向植株的组织器官释放出一些潜在热量，进而保护芽或新枝不受霜冻的伤害。精心 设计的葡萄园 也能使霜冻的风险降至最低。由于冷空气会下沉到它所到达的最低点，因此最好是将葡萄园安置在斜坡上，这样就避免形成冷空气聚集的凹地。那些种植在斜坡中部的葡萄植株与种植在较低地势的植株相比，遭受霜冻的可能性会明显减少。葡萄植株也可以整形成高树性，这样也可以避开最寒冷的空气。
Mild Winters or lack of a defined winter can prevent the vine becoming dormant. In extreme cases, particularly in subtropical climates, the vine can fall out of its natural annual cycle and may produce more than one crop each year. Its life will be shortened, and the quality of the crop will suffer. Mild winters also mean larger populations of vineyard insect pests survive to attack the vine the following summer.
温和的冬季 或不典型的冬季会使葡萄无法进入休眠状态。在一些极端的情况下，尤其在亚热带气候条件下的地区，葡萄本来的自然生长周期可能被打乱，导致一年结出一次以上的果实。这会缩短葡萄植株的寿命，果实品质也会降低。温和的冬季也意味着更多的害虫能够存活越冬，在来年夏季青海葡萄植株。
High Summer Temperatures accelerate the ripening of grapes, altering the composition of the grapes and changing the style of the wine. Where there is insufficient water available, the vine may stop ripening the grapes, may shed its leaves and in extreme cases the vine will die.
夏季的高温 会加速葡萄果实的成熟过程，改变果实中各成分的含量，进而改变酒的风格。当环境中的水分供给不足时，葡萄植株有可能会终止果实成熟的过程，脱落一些叶片，在极端情况下，葡萄植株还会死亡。
SUNLIGHT
What a vine needs
Without light, photosynthesis cannot happen and plants die. Light levels limit the rate of photosynthesis so, as long as there is sufficient water and heat, the more light there is the greater the amount of glucose the leaves produce for growth and ripening grapes. If conditions are cloudy, as in the Hunter Valley in Australia, grape sugar levels will remain low. Grapes also ripen better if they are exposed to direct sunlight although if it is too sunny they can suffer from sunburn, leading to bitter-tasting dark patches on the grape skins and reduction in wine quality.
阳光
葡萄植株的需求
没有阳光，光合作用就不可能发生，植物就会死亡。光合作用的效率受限于日照的强度，因此只要有充足的水分和热量，阳光越充足，叶片就会生产出越多的葡萄糖来供植株生长和果实成熟使用。如果多云的天气状况较多，利润澳大利亚的猎人谷，葡萄果实的含糖量会降低，如果可以受到直接的阳光照射，葡萄的果实会成熟的更好，但是如果阳光过于强烈，果实就会被晒伤，导致葡萄果实的表皮上出现一些有苦味的黑色斑块，降低了葡萄的品质。
Factors Affecting Sunlight
Many of the factors that affect temperature also affect sunlight.
影响阳光的因素
许多影响温度的因素也都会影响到阳光。
Seas and Lakes – Vineyards near large bodies of water tend to experience more cloud cover. Regions at the centre of large land masses tend to be sunnier. In some cases, vineyards situated above rivers or lakes can benefit from reflected sunlight.
海洋和湖泊 – 那些距离大面积水域比较近的葡萄园通常会更容易被云层遮盖。而那些处在大面积陆地中央的葡萄园一般会遇到更多的晴朗天气。有时，位于河流和湖泊上游的葡萄园可以接收到水面反射的阳光。
Latitude – Day length during the summer growing season is longer the further the vineyard is from the equator. This extra sunlight is an important factor in ripening Riesling in Germany, and Cabernet Sauvignon in Washington State.
纬度 – 葡萄园距离赤道越远，夏季生长季的白昼时间就越长。这些额外的阳光对于德国的雷司令和华盛顿州赤霞珠葡萄的成熟起到了重要的作用。
Aspect – A slope’s aspect affects the amount of sunlight it receives and steeper slopes benefit more from this effect. Vineyards that face the equator receive the most sunlight. The greater the distance from the equator the weaker the sun’s energy so for vineyards that are closest to the poles, maximising the sunlight with a favourable aspect is especially important.
朝向 – 斜坡的朝向会决定它能接收到多少阳光，而陡峭的山坡最为受益。那些面向赤道的葡萄园会接收到更多的阳光。距离赤道越远，阳光的能量强度就越会弱，所以对那些离南北两极最近的葡萄园来说，选择有利的朝向来获取最大程度的光照极其重要。
Sunlight Hazards
Vines evolved as woodland climbers and they would tend to flower and fruit when they broke through into the light above the leaf canopy. It would be a waste of energy if they fruited in the shade of the trees out of sight of the birds because birds are needed to spread the vine’s seeds. Buds that form on excessively shaded vine are therefore less fruitful. Shaded flowers are also at greater risk of coulure and the grapes that do develop may struggle to ripen.
阳光灾害
葡萄植株在林地攀援植物进化而来，当它们突破树冠出现在阳光下时会开花结果。如果它们在树荫遮挡下开花结果，就会白白浪费能量，因为鸟类看不见被树荫遮挡的果实，就无法为葡萄植株传播种子。那些处在过多树荫遮挡下的芽结出的果实果味会比较清淡。被遮阴的花朵遭受落花（不坐果）的风险会更大，而且即使结出果实也很难发育成熟。
Canopy management techniques can be used to ensure grapes are ripened successfully in areas with little sunlight, and areas that are very sunny. Exceptionally cloudy conditions can stop grapes ripening fully, leading to low levels of alcohol, and unripe tannins and flavours. They also lead to decreased crops the following year. Exceptionally sunny conditions can cause sunburn, leading to bitter flavours in the grape skins.
在那些阳光较为稀缺或过于强烈的地区，树冠管理技术可以确保葡萄果实的顺利成熟。过多的多云天气会阻碍葡萄完全成熟，使酒的酒精度较低，并出现生涩的单宁和不成熟的风味，还会造成来年减产。而过多的晴朗天气也可能导致晒伤，使葡萄果皮出现苦味。