#每天读一点服装史# FRENCH A LA MODE

1778 - 1789

FRENCH A LA MODE

Toward the end of the 18th century people of fashion looked to France for the latest word on matters of taste in clothing, manners, and cultural trends.

But on the eve of the Revolution, the French aristocracy were out of touch with the general population, and it showed in the excesses of their dress.

The styles of the age included tightly waisted bodices and draped and padded skirts.

Upthrust, corseted bosoms were set off with low, round necklines, often edged with lace.

Hair tended to be high-rise and hats were big.

The French influence, and exquisite textiles such as Lyons silk, ensured that well-bred ladies were not merely dressed in fine clothes but were themselves sophisticated adornments both in society and at home.

French style Polonaise

CALASH

To protect their towering hairstyles, women wore a kind of bonnet called a “calash” after the similar hood on a horse-drawn carriage of this name.

Usually made of fine silk stretched over hoops made of cane, wood, or whalebone, the calash folded away concertina-style when not in use.

No calash was as vast as the caricature seen here, which is taken from a book of illustrations poking fun at 18th-century fashion.

Salash

French hair style

公元1778 - 1789年

法式时髦

十八世纪末的时髦人士，向法国寻求关于服饰，礼仪与文化趋势的最新讯息。

但到了革命前夕，法国贵族不再和民众建立联系，他们的服饰也显得浮夸了。

法国王后玛丽亚

那个时代的风格，包括紧身收腰胸衣，垂坠拖尾与带衬垫裙子。

向上挺立的，紧身胸衣与低圆领搭配在一起，边缘经常以花边装饰。

发型趋势是高大隆起的发髻与装饰帽。

法式的影响力与精致纺织品例如，里昂丝绸，确保良好教养的女士们不仅仅只是穿着精美，在社会与家庭中他们都是精美的展示品。

高耸发型，羽毛发饰，低领口胸衣与向上隆起的后拖尾裙。

蓬式兜帽

为了保护她们的塔式发型，女性会戴一种我们称之为“calash卡拉式”的蓬式兜帽，

通常它们由精致丝绸制作而成，以藤条，木头或鲸鱼骨制成环箍，当不使用时便将其折叠起来。

再没有像卡拉式兜帽这样传播广泛的讽刺了，这个造型是从一本十八世纪供人娱乐的画册里找到的。

CALASH卡拉式蓬式兜帽