#每天读一点服装史# SOFTER SILHOUETTES

1625 - 1635

SOFTER SILHOUETTES

Fashions changed relatively slowly in the 17th century; but with the demise of the rigid farthingale petticoat, the trend in the mid-1620s to mid-1630s was toward a more bulky, soft silhouette, and dresses with higher waists and fuller sleeves.

During this period dresses could be made up of three separate parts: a bodice, a petticoat, and a gown over the top (which might be gathered up to reveal the petticoat below).

Another style was to wear the gown hanging from the shoulders.

As with men's fashion, the ruff gave way to the broad falling collar edged with elegant handmade lace.

Only in the Dutch United Provinces (now the Netherlands) was the ruff retained as the neckwear of choice.

The fabric used in European fashionable dress in the 17th century was produced in many countries, with silk satins and velvets designed and woven in France and Italy, and linen for shirts and smocks made in the Netherlands and Germany.

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JEWELRY

On formal occasions jewelry - along with lace and rich matericals - was one of the most important components of women's fashionable dress.

Seventeenth-century paintings and prints show that the "must have" piece of jewelry of the 1630s was a breast ornament, somewhat like a brooch, worn at the center front of the bodice.

Portrait painters also showed women wearing two or three necklaces of gemstones; and strings of pearls too were a popular choice.

Pearls were also worn as drop earrings and as hair ornaments.

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1625 - 1635

柔软轮廓

时尚在十七世纪变化相对缓慢；但随着呆板衬裙的让位，十七世纪20年代中期到30年代中期则往一种更庞大，柔软，更高腰，更宽袖的轮廓趋势发展。

在这一时期，服饰由三个独立部分组成：上衣，衬裙以及一件从头至脚的长袍。

另一种款式则是从肩膀开始下垂的长袍。

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与男装时尚一样，多层次花边被带有优雅手工花边的宽阔衣领替代。

只有在荷兰联合州（现在的荷兰），多层次花边被保留成为颈部装饰。

十七世纪欧洲时尚服饰中所用的面料在许多国家生产，丝绸锦缎与天鹅绒在法国与意大利设计编织，衬衫与工作服所需的亚麻布在荷兰与德国制造。

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珠宝配饰

正式场合佩戴的珠宝配饰包括蕾丝与贵重物料，是当时时尚女装最重要的组成部分之一。

十七世纪绘画与印刷制品显示，1630年“必备”的珠宝单品是胸部装饰，类似胸针，穿戴在上衣的前中部。

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肖像画家还告诉人们女性佩戴两或三件宝石项链；以及珍珠串也是时髦的选择。

珍珠也同样被当作耳环与发饰穿戴。

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