调研 | KIEHL'S Powerful-Strength Line-Reducing Concentrate成分解析

护肤品 化学成分 KIEHL'S 科颜氏 契尔氏

基本信息

品牌:KIEHL'S “科颜氏”“契尔氏”
产品名:Powerful-Strength Line-Reducing Concentrate 祛皱紧肤精华液
功效:Decrease Appearance of Fine Lines and Wrinkles, and Improve Radiance and Texture 减少细纹和皱纹,改善肌肤光泽和质地
重点成分:12.5% VITAMIN C 维他命C + Hyaluronic Acid 玻尿酸

成分解析

  • Propylene Glycol
    中文名:丙二醇
    作用:皮肤调理剂 - 保湿 降粘剂 溶剂 香料
    特性:

    1. enhance the appearance of skin by reducing flaking and restoring suppleness 通过减少角质剥落和恢复皮肤柔软来提高皮肤外观
    2. penetration enhancer 有渗透促进作用

    警告:

    1. Classified as skin irritant.(皮肤刺激物)-- National Library of Medicine
      It has been associated with irritant and allergic contact dermatitis as well as contact urticaria in humans.(有限的证据显示该成分与刺激性/过敏性接触皮炎、接触性荨麻疹有关)-- CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review)
      Patients with eczema should use products containing Propylene Glycol with caution.(湿疹患者慎用)
    2. Subject to concentration or use limitations(有浓度和使用限制) --Cosmetic Ingredient Review Assessments
    3. It should not be applied to damaged or burned skin. (破损皮肤禁用)
  • Dimethicone
    中文名:聚二甲基硅氧烷
    作用:皮肤调理剂 - 保湿 皮肤保护剂 - 闭塞特性可防水 降粘剂 溶剂
    特性:

    1. prevents water loss by forming a hydrating barrier on the skin 通过在皮肤上形成保湿屏障来防止水分流失
    2. creating a subtle gloss that feels smooth and silky to touch 当应用于皮肤时,产生微妙的光泽,感觉光滑柔滑。
      can fill in fine lines/wrinkles on the face, giving it a temporary “plump” look 可以在脸上填充细纹/皱纹,使其具有暂时的“丰满”外观
    3. As a non-comedogenic ingredient, it provides a significant amount of emollience and coverage to the skin, without adding any heaviness 作为非粉刺成分,它为皮肤提供了大量的润肤和覆盖,而不会增加任何沉重感
    4. enhance the light refractability of other ingredients 可以提高其他成分的光折射性
    5. has a unique fluidity that makes it easily spreadable 拥有独特流动性,易于涂抹
  • Glycerin
    中文名:丙三醇(甘油)
    作用:皮肤调理剂 - 保湿 皮肤保护剂 - 闭塞特性可防水
    特性:

    1. attracts water to skin and helps skin to feel smoother and softer 吸收水分至肌肤,帮助肌肤恢复正常水合,变得更加光滑而柔软
    2. helps skin cells mature properly that spit out lipids to help form the skin's protective barrier 促进细胞成熟,从而分泌脂质保护肌肤

    警告:

    1. Restricted in cosmetics (化妆品中限制使用)-- Canada - Prohibited and Restricted Cosmetics Ingredients
  • Ascorbic Acid
    中文名:抗坏血酸(维生素C)
    作用:抗氧化剂 PH调节剂
    特性:

    1. essential nutrient required for collagen production, tissue repair, and for the synthesis of neurotransmitters 是胶原蛋白生成、组织修复和神经递质合成所必需的必需营养素
    2. slow deterioration caused by exposure to the air 减缓由暴露于空气引起的变质

维生素C是该产品的重点成分。这里针对维生素C的特性做了扩展调研。通过一篇发布于17年医学卫生期刊的论文,提取了以下信息点:The Roles of Vitamin C in skin health (该文章收录于美国国家医学图书馆)

  • Vitamin C, as a water-soluble and charged molecule, is repelled by the physical barrier of the terminally differentiated epidermal cells. 维生素C是水溶性的带电分子,被表皮细胞分化形成的物理屏障所排斥

  • . It is only when pH levels are below 4 and vitamin C is present as ascorbic acid that some penetration occurs. 只有当酸碱度低于4,且维生素C作为抗坏血酸存在时,才会在表皮发生一些渗透

  • Dietary supplementation is therefore only expected to be effective in elevating skin vitamin C in individuals who have below-saturation plasma levels prior to intervention. 有研究显示,通过饮食补给维生素C的方式,仅对血浆浓度低于饱和的个体有效。


    文章也对维生素C的主要功能做了介绍:

  • The promotion of collagen formation 促进胶原蛋白合成

  • is a potent antioxidant that can neutralise and remove oxidants, such as those found in environmental pollutants and after exposure to ultraviolet radiation. 是一种强效的抗氧化剂,可以中和环境污染物和紫外线辐射带来的氧化作用

  • Inhibition of melanogenesis 抑制黑色素生成

  • Play a role in the differentiation of keratinocytes在角质细胞的分化中发挥作用(促进伤口愈合)

  • Ethylhexyl Palmitate
    中文名:棕榈酸乙基己酯
    作用:皮肤调理剂 - 润滑 溶剂
    特性:

    1. has a 'dry-slip' feel that is very similar to silicone's texture 拥有与硅相似的干滑感

    警告:

    1. subject to concentration or use limitations(有浓度和使用限制)-- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Assessments
    2. Human irritant - strong evidence(已证实对人体有刺激性)-- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Assessments
  • Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone
    中文名:鲸蜡基二甲基硅氧烷共聚醇
    作用:表面活性剂 - 乳化 皮肤调理剂 - 润滑
    特性:

    1. keeps the water and oil parts of an emulsion from separating 防止乳液水油分离
    2. gives a smooth and soft look and eliminates any tackiness 使皮肤光滑柔软,减少粘性
  • Dimethicone Crosspolymer
    中文名:聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物
    作用:增粘剂 乳液稳定剂
    特性:

    1. would not penetrate the skin 不会渗透进皮肤
    2. not soluble in water 不溶于水
  • Ascorbyl Glucoside
    中文名:抗坏血酸葡糖苷
    作用:抗氧化剂
    在上文介绍维生素C的期刊文章中有提到:

    1. 抗坏血酸糖苷作为一种衍生物,比抗坏血酸更为稳定,能穿越皮肤表面物理屏障,深入渗透。在体内转化为抗坏血酸从而产生作用
    2. 但是这种衍生物在体内的转化效率目前不清楚
  • Cyclohexasiloxane
    中文名:环己硅氧烷
    作用:皮肤调理剂 - 润滑 溶剂
    特性:

    1. has a unique fluidity that makes it easily spreadable 拥有独特流动性使得易于涂抹
    2. gives a silky & slippery feeling to the touch 给肌肤带来丝滑触感
    3. acts a mild water repellent by forming a protective barrier on the skin 在皮肤表面形成拒水屏障
    4. fill in fine lines/wrinkles, giving the face a temporary “plump” look 填充细纹和皱纹,使皮肤获得暂时的“丰满”效果
  • Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid
    中文名:羟乙基哌嗪乙烷磺酸
    作用:缓冲剂
    特性:

    1. maintains physiological pH 维持ph在恒定范围

    警告:

    1. the production of hydrogen peroxide when exposed to ambient light. It is therefore strongly advised to keep HEPES-containing solutions in darkness as much as possible (当暴露于光照时会产生过氧化氢。强烈建议存储在黑暗条件下)
  • Lauroyl Lysine
    中文名:月桂酰赖氨酸
    作用:表面活性剂 - 质地增强 皮肤调理剂 - 润滑
    特性:

    1. contributing to a product’s texture 改善产品质地

    警告:

    1. subject to concentration or use limitations(有浓度和使用限制) --Cosmetic Ingredient Review Assessments
  • Acrylonitrile/Methyl Methacrylate/Vinylidene Chloride Copolymer
    中文名:丙烯腈/甲基丙烯酸甲酯/亚乙烯基二氯共聚物
    作用:成膜剂

  • Polysilicone-11
    中文名:聚硅氧烷-11
    作用:表面活性剂 - 质地增强 皮肤调理剂 - 润滑
    特性:

    1. The film left behind has water-binding properties and leaves a smooth feel on skin 留下的薄膜具有水粘合特性,在皮肤上留下光滑的感觉
  • Adenosine
    中文名:腺苷
    作用:皮肤调理剂

  • Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
    中文名:水解透明质酸
    作用:皮肤调理剂 - 保湿
    特性:

    1. a low molecular weight version of Hyaluronic Acid, and works mainly in the epidermis (outer layer of the skin)是天然大分子保湿剂透明质酸(玻尿酸)的低分子量版本,可深入皮肤表皮内
    2. acts as a sponge helping the skin to retain water, making it plump and elastic 起到海绵的作用,帮助皮肤保持水分,使其丰满和富有弹性
  • Limonene
    中文名:柠檬烯
    作用:香精
    特性:

    1. has a light, fresh, and sweet citrus odor 具有淡雅,清新,甜美的柑橘气味

    警告:

    1. Upon storage and exposure to sunlight and air, limonene degrades to various oxidation products which act as skin and respiratory irritants and sensitizers (暴露于阳光和空气中时,会降解成各种氧化产物,这些产物对皮肤和呼吸道有刺激和致敏作用)
    2. Recommended restricted in cosmetics: safe only if satisfies manufacturing specifications or purity limits(建议限制在化妆品中 - 使用,浓缩或制造限制 - 香味受限制:只有满足制造规格或纯度限制才能安全)--International Fragrance Association Codes & Standards
  • Isobutane
    中文名:异丁烷
    作用:推进剂
    警告:

    1. subject to concentration or use limitations(有浓度和使用限制) --Cosmetic Ingredient Review Assessments
      only for products for use around the eyes, on the skin, or may be aerosolized(仅适用于眼睛周围,皮肤上或雾化产品) --Cosmetic Ingredient Review Assessments
    2. Human irritant - strong evidence (有强力证据显示为人体刺激物) --Cosmetic Ingredient Review Assessments
      the substance is volatilized before it can come in contact with the skin, such a short period of contact makes the absence of sensitization, phototoxicity, and photosensitization studies unimportant(具有挥发性,如此短的接触时间使得基本没有致敏可能)
  • Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil
    中文名:甜橙果皮油
    作用:皮肤调理剂
    警告:

    1. safe only within recommended use or concentration limits(在满足使用和浓度限制下是安全的)--International Fragrance Association Codes & Standards
  • Citrus Limon Peel Oil/Lemon Peel Oil
    中文名:柠檬果皮油
    作用:香精
    警告:

    1. restricts the use, because it contains some compounds that may cause skin effects when exposed to the sun(使用是有限制,因为该成分含有一些化合物,当暴露在阳光下时可能会引起皮肤效应)*--International Fragrance Association Standard
  • Citral
    中文名:柠檬醛
    作用:香精
    警告:

    1. safe only within recommended use or concentration limits(在满足使用和浓度限制下是安全的)--International Fragrance Association Codes & Standards
    2. Irritation (skin, eyes, or lungs) --European Union - Classification & Labelling
  • Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
    中文名:季戊四醇四(双-t-丁基羟基氢化肉桂酸)酯
    作用:抗结块剂

以上基本介绍及成分列表来自于包装盒打印信息
成分解析来自于搜索引擎排名前十的信息网站,包括: EWG' Skin Deep - Cosmetics Database、Cosmetics Info、Truth in Aging、Wikipedia

通过此次调研,不难发现:

  1. 很多成分带来的“柔润”只是暂时的,或者说是修饰性的,如果中断产品使用/洗脸,都会失去效果;
  2. 水解透明质酸性质上和玻尿酸还是有一定区别,品牌方可能是考虑到后者在女性人群中的认知度,产品包装上有意识地隐去了这部分区别;
  3. 暗光储存是保持效用的重要条件;
  4. 抗氧化和保湿是各类护肤品的功效本质;其他都是虚的,哈哈哈

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