#每天读点服装史# OPULENCE RESTORED

1660 - 1685

OPULENCE RESTORED

With the Restoration of the monarchy in 1660, opulence returned to fashion in England.

The justaucorps (knee-length coat) took over from the doublet as the main garment in a man's wardrobe.

Its body was longer and straighter than the doublet, falling to the knee and closing down the front with small buttons from neck to hem.

The lower part of the coat known as the skirt had back and side openings (to allow a sword to poke through).

JUSTAUCORPS

Gradually it became tighter on the waist and fuller at the hem.

Sleeves were wide with turned-back cuffs.

The waistcoat was worn underneath -- it was the same length but narrower in cut than the coat, with long, fitted sleeves.

Breeches were still worn full and short to just below the knee, often decorated with bows and ribbon trimmings.

By the 1680s breeches became slimmer in fit and fastened at the knee.

LOUIS XIV JUSTAUCORPS WITH LONG CURLED FULL-BOTTOMED WIGS.

CHARLES II

In 1660 King Charles II returned from exile in France to take the English throne.

He was known for his love of fashionable dress and introduced styles from the French court.

In 1666 he introduced a more sober style of dressing of a coat, waistcoat (vest), and breeches in black silk over white.

This is seen as the origin of the three-piece suit.

CHARLES II

公元1660 - 1685年

富裕复兴

随着1660年君主制恢复，富裕风格又回到英国的时尚中来。

究斯特科尔justaucorps（及膝大衣）替换了男士衣柜中的双排扣夹克成为主要款式。

它的上身比双扣夹克更修长更挺直，垂到膝盖并闭合的前门襟以小纽扣自颈部到下摆处装饰一排。

大衣的下半部类似裙子，有后背与侧面的开口（以方便配件穿过衣服）。

假发，宽袖口长外套，前排小扣与马裤。

渐渐地腰部变得更紧，下摆更饱满。

袖子宽大伴随折返回来的袖口。

马甲穿在底下， 长度与大衣相等但剪裁更加贴身。

马裤依旧全套穿戴，长短在膝盖之下，经常以蝴蝶结与丝带装饰。

直到1680年代，马裤才变得更加贴身并绑定在膝盖上。

细长外套，前排小扣，宽袖口边，马裤。

查尔斯二世

1660年，国王查尔斯二世从法国回到英国夺回王位。

他以热爱时尚服饰而闻名，并且引进了法国宫廷款式。

1666年，他带回一系列以白色衬衣外套黑色丝绸的，更理性的外套，马甲与马裤。

这看起来就是西服三件套的起源。

黑色三件套