#每天读一点服装史# BONED BODICE TO MANTUA

1660 - 1680

BONED BODICE TO MANTUA

The 20 years between 1660 and 1680 saw significant change in women's fashions and in society in general.

In England King Charles II reclaimed the throne, while in France King Louis XIV established the palace of Versailles, re-establishing the monarchy as the center of patronage and high fashion.

Queen of France Marie-therese (wife  of louis XIV).

The evolution of women's clothing saw the slow demise of the dress made up of a boned bodice, a skirt, and gown, and the beginnings of the mantua, a loose gown with an overskirt elaborately draped at the back.

New styles demanded different expertise, and women's dress was now made by mantua makers, although more structured garments were still constructed by stay makers and tailors.

Women selected fabric and trimmings for dresses, including lace, from visiting drapers, linen and silk merchants, and milliners.

Pattern skirt with gown held up at back.

CORSETS

In the 17th-century finely boned garments, sometimes referred to as corsets, were worn as bodices (the visible upper part of a dress).

Boned garments began to be known as le corps (a pair of stays).

They contained tabs, which spread out to allow for the roundness of the hips.

By the 1680s this boned style had become an undergarment worn beneath the new looser styles of dress such as the mantua.

Corsets

公元1660 - 1680年

从去骨胸衣到曼图亚外套

1660至1680间的20年，我们可以看到女性时尚与总体社会发生巨大变化。

在英国查尔斯二世重新夺回王位，而在法国路易十四建立了凡尔赛宫，重新建立以君主制与高级高尚的中心。

女装发展展示了由鱼骨胸衣，半身裙与长袍组成的连衣裙在逐渐消失，从曼图亚外套开始，那是一款搭配精美垂坠后片裙的宽松长袍。

新的款式需要不同的专业技术，女性服装现在由曼图亚制造商制造，尽管更多结构性服装仍旧由之前的制造商与裁缝制作。

女性为服装选择面料与装饰，包括蕾丝，来自亚麻与丝绸供应商与作坊。

英国艺术家Sir Peter Lely描绘的17世纪时尚。Anne Hyde, 约克公爵夫人。

束身内衣

十七世纪精美鱼骨服装，有时被称为corset束身内衣，穿起来就像胸衣一样。

鱼骨服装开始被称作le corps。

他们包含贴片，以便拓展令臀部弧度得以拓展。

到十七世纪80年代，这种鱼骨风格已经变成穿着曼图亚新宽松风格服饰的必备内衣。

束身内衣，臀部有弧度以便拓展。