#每天读一点服装史# CRINOLINES

1856 - 1869

CRINOLINES

The new crinoline frame provided relief from wearing multi-layered petticoats, but its buoyancy meant that long cotton drawers were now essential under linens.

1860

In the 1860s an oval frame shape evolved and box-pleated skirts gave way to gored panels, which provided a smoother fit over the frame.

Bodices and skirts were often separate items, allowing alternate styles of bodice, and front-closure for convenience.

With the availability of domestic sewing machines home dressmaking increased, as did the use of copious trimmings.

Large frames were abandoned after 1867, then crinolettes and bustle pads took over.

1860

CAGED IN

Putting a dress over a crinoline frame required assistance.

A linen chemise, corset, and open drawers with petticoat were worn under a watch-spring steel and tape frame.

The dress was then lowered over the head.

WOMEN WEARING CRINOLINES SET ON FIRE

WOOL AND SILK WEAVES

The range of materials and complex patterning available to women by 1860 was extraordinary.

The textile industry in Britain vied with Indian manufacturers to satisfy in creasing demand and changing tastes.

Edinburgh, Crayford in Essex, Norwich, and later Paisley produced wool shawls.

1855-59

1856 - 1869

克里诺林裙衬

新的克里诺林用多层次里衬提供舒适感，但从它的蓬度上来看，一条长的棉质打底裤是非常有必要的。

1860

十九世纪六十年代，一种椭圆形的架构形状得到发展，箱式打褶裙让位给了三角形切面，从而提供了一种更平滑的架构轮廓。

上身与裙子通常是分开的，可以允许轮换搭配，为了方便开口门襟在前面。

随着家用缝纫机普及，在家做衣服的人数开始增加，并大量使用装饰花边。

大群衬在1867年后不再使用，取而代之的是  然后克里诺雷提裙衬和臀垫。

CRINOLINES ABOUT 1860

进入裙笼

将裙子穿在crinoline外是需要有人帮助的。

一层亚麻衬里，然后是紧身胸衣，以及带有衬垫的多层次衬里都穿在钢制弹簧与带状框架里面。

外裙从头上套下来。

羊毛与丝织物

1860年女性服装对材料与复杂图案的使用范围已经非常广泛。

英国纺织业与印度制造商合作，满足日益增长的需求和品位变化。

爱丁堡，埃塞克斯的克雷福德，诺维奇以及晚些时候的佩斯利盛产羊毛披肩。

1859 GOLD TIERED DRESS