#每天读一点服装史# DEMURE DAY DRESSES

1837 - 1855

DEMURE DAY DRESSES

From the late 1830s dresses expanded slowly but surely to ever wider proportions, enveloping the legs and ankles completely.


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1837

Lower shoulder lines and tighter sleeves restricted the range of upper body movement, as did square shawls folded diagonally and draped around shoulders.


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1838

Corsets, and often bodices, were stiffened with whalebone and had a long front bust pushing down on the embonpoint (plumpness of the stomach), creating a narrow waist.

Full skirts, organ-pleated into the waist, were supported on multiple layers of petticoats, at least one of which was stiffened with crin, (from the French for horsehair).


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1837

Dress skirts began to feature tiers and, by the early 1850s, were embellished with trimmings.

Accessories such as beadwork bags, purses, and parasols were pretty and feminine.


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1850 GODEY WEDDING DRESS

CHILDREN’S WEAR

Girls at this time were dressed as miniature versions of their mothers, with full dresses worn over two or more layers of petticoats to create a bell-shaped skirt.

Young girls’ skirts were shorter, however, and revealed pantalettes (linen or cotton leggings tied above the knee), which were edged with lace or pretty embroidery.

When outdoors, these light-colored dresses were covered with darker overcoats made from heavier fabrics.

Bonnets and gloves were also worn.

Young boys also wore dresses until they were “breeched” (first dressed in breeches or trousers), which was usually when they were between four and eight years old.


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1837 - 1855

端庄连衣裙

十九世纪30年代末期裙展逐渐扩大到一定程度,完全包住了腿和脚踝。


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1837-39

更低的肩线与更紧的袖子限制了上半身的活动范围,如同一块正方披肩对折披围在肩膀上一样。

紧身胸衣,使用鱼骨加强支撑,并加长了前胸以下的范围(使丰满腹部)被一并收紧,创造出狭窄的腰围。


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全身裙,褶皱被收进腰里,并靠多层衬裙支撑,其中至少有一层法国马毛里衬。


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1839

裙身开始有层次特征,到了十九世纪50年代早期,开始加上装饰饰边。

配饰例如珠宝袋,钱包以及遮阳伞等都非常漂亮与女性化。


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1850 PRINCESS WEDDING DRESS

儿童服装

这个时期女孩们的穿着就如同她们母亲的缩小版本,全身裙再加上至少两层以上的内衬,形成了钟型裙式样。

然而小女童的裙子则较短,并且露出以蕾丝或精美刺绣做装饰的裙摆,裙摆下使亚麻或棉制的绑腿。户外时,浅色的裙子就被厚重面料的神色外套覆盖了。

帽子与手套都是要佩戴的。

小男童也穿着连衣裙,里面穿着马裤或休闲裤,通常在四到八岁会这么穿着。


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