#每天读一点服装史# RENAISSANCE MEN

1450 - 1500

RENAISSANCE MEN

From the 1480s new broad shapes began to replace the last traces of the medieval in men's clothing.

Instead of an emphasis on a long, vertical male figure, the Renaissance man, with his earthier, artistic, and scientific pursuits and a new interest in classical ideas, favored blunt and square forms that expanded sideways.

Soldier's and statesmen's cropped hair grew into the long, natural locks of poets and scholars.

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cropped hair grew into the long, natural locks of poets


Men began to wear collections of clothing as an ensemble and used surfaces, fabrics, and edges as decorative spaces.

Places where clothes connected -- in seams, the tops of sleeves, and under lacing -- revealed layers underneath.

Though pleating continued, natural folds reappeared using the elegant drape of circular pieces to great effect.

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Juan I look


LIFE CHANGES

As a man moved through each stage of life, his clothing changed to reveal his place in society.

Active young men wore short, fitted doublets and robes revealing shapely thighs.

In adult maturity, around 25, the hemline started creeping farther down the thigh.

By middle and old age hemlines reached the floor.

Longer and darker robes enhanced dignity for professional and political men, and for those who did not do manual labor, such as scholars and doctors.

The floor-length robes also kept them warm.

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hair style and robes kept warm.


公元1450 - 1500年

文艺复兴男子

自从1480年新的服装廓形开始代替中世纪男装最后的痕迹。

替代了长直筒的男性形象,文艺复兴风格的男子,伴随着更质朴的,艺术与科学的追求,对古典主义思想的新兴趣,以及那种直率的青睐都被横向扩大了。

士兵与政治家将他们的头发留长,看着就像诗人或学者的样子。

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大胆查理的齐刘海


男性开始穿着一系列整套的服装,并且利用表面,面料以及边缘装饰空间来作文章。

衣服的接缝处,袖笼处,打底衫的系带处,都特意显露出里层的衣服。

尽管打褶风格继续,但天然折叠再现了优雅环状垂坠式裁剪的精美效果。

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大胆查理的黑色外套在当时极其时髦,利用不用种类的黑色印染展示出精美昂贵的品质。他的大帽子也利用填充来造型。


生活状态改变

就像一个人走过他生命的每一级台阶,他的服饰变化也揭露着他在社会中的地位。

活力的年轻男子穿着短而贴身的上衣,以及从长袍中露出的结实胯部。

当进入成人期,25岁左右,下摆线开始延伸到大腿下。

中年与老年穿着者下摆拖地。

更长更黑的袍子增强了职业人士与政治人物的严肃性,并且针对那些并没有进行体力劳动的人群,例如学者与医生。

且拖地长袍提供保暖。

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年轻男子着装。卡尔巴乔。

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