水晶灯、大理石及政治宣传——带你窥探朝鲜地铁系统内部
Chandeliers, marble and propaganda: Inside North Korea's metro system
平壤地铁建在地下100米（328英尺），是世界上最深的一个地铁系统。
它同时也是世界上最神秘的一个。
Buried 100 meters (328 feet) underground, the Pyongyang Metro is one of the deepest commuter systems in the world.
It's also one of the world's most mysterious.
每年只有几千名游客可以进入朝鲜。因为只有特定的旅行团才能获准访问，访问行程由导游严密规划，特定区域还严禁游客参观，所以朝鲜人民的日常生活通常不被外人所知。
平壤地铁建在地下100米（328英尺），是世界上最深的一个地铁系统。
它同时也是世界上最神秘的一个。
Buried 100 meters (328 feet) underground, the Pyongyang Metro is one of the deepest commuter systems in the world.
It's also one of the world's most mysterious.
每年只有几千名游客可以进入朝鲜。因为只有特定的旅行团才能获准访问，访问行程由导游严密规划，特定区域还严禁游客参观，所以朝鲜人民的日常生活通常不被外人所知。
Only a few thousand tourists enter the Democratic People's Republic of Korea each year. Visits are only granted through specific tour groups, itineraries are heavily planned by tour guides, and certain areas are strictly off limits, so everyday life in North Korea is often hidden from outsiders.
25岁的摄影师伊莱恩·李今年十月首次到朝鲜首都平壤旅游，旅行期间最令她吃惊的是对朝鲜的熟悉感。
But when 25-year-old photographer Elaine Li made her first trip to the North Korea's capital in October, what struck her most was the sense of familiarity.
作为一名土生土长的香港人，李对于城市生活绝不陌生。她的摄影作品大部分是摩天大楼、拥挤的交通和一些有趣的通勤景象，深受大家的喜爱，虽然年纪轻轻，她的Instagram就已经吸引了13.3万粉丝。
Born and raised in Hong Kong, Li is no stranger to city life. Her portfolio -- largely filled with images of skyscrapers, traffic jams and amusing commutes -- has built the young photographer a following of over 133,000 on Instagram.
这次的旅游行程中，不乏各类学校、餐馆和地标性建筑，但却是一次乘坐地铁的经历，让她觉得最像自己的家乡。她向CNN分享了这段体验。
While schools, restaurants and city landmarks were all on her itinerary, it was a ride in the subway that felt closest to home. She spoke to CNN Style about the experience.
CNN：你对平壤地铁的第一印象是什么？
我首先注意到的是，尽管地铁站光线昏暗，但内部装饰却十分华丽。天花板上有水晶灯、柱子是大理石的，随处可见金正日的画像。
我还注意到站台上有许多报刊架，本身就是打开好的，不少人会站在周围阅读报纸。
这些对我来说非常有趣，因为在香港这样的大城市，我们整天被广告轰炸。而在平壤，他们被政治宣传轰炸。
CNN: What were your first impressions of the Pyongyang Metro?
Elaine Li:
The first thing I noticed was that, although the stations are very dimly lit, the interiors are very fancy. You see chandeliers on the ceilings, marble pillars and paintings of Kim Jong Il.
The next thing I noticed was the newspaper stands that are on display across the platform itself -- you'll see people standing around and reading them.
This was all very interesting to me because, in cosmopolitan cities like Hong Kong, we are bombarded with advertising. In Pyongyang, they are bombarded with propaganda.
CNN：你在拍摄地铁照片时有遭到禁止吗？
一般来说，我们在列车或车站上拍照，都能得到导游的允许。
我们全程都有导游陪同，但在站台上是可以自由走动的。
至于搭地铁，游客只能搭乘很少的几站，而且只能在特定的站点下车。
唯一的限制是不允许游客拍摄隧道内部，我也不知道为什么。
Were you given any restrictions when photographing the subway?
In general I had no issues getting permission to take photographs on the trains or stations.
The tour guides accompanied us for the whole commute, but on the platform we were free to roam around.
As for traveling on the train itself, we were only allowed to travel for a few stops, and only got off at certain stations.
The only restriction was that we were not allowed to take photographs from inside the tunnels, I am not sure why.
CNN：在地铁上感觉怎么样？
我首先感觉到的是周围太安静了。没有人说话，感觉太乏味了，甚至可以说有点死气沉沉。
但之后我回到香港，发现香港地铁上，人们同样不怎么交流。
虽然香港地铁的广播比较大声，一开始听起来似乎更加热闹，但实际上，香港的乘客之间也互不交流，他们仿佛和手机粘在一起。我在平壤地铁上，也看到有人玩手机，但相比之下人数少多了。
更多人只是到处看看，比较腼腆，互相之间也不交谈。平壤的通勤情况从这点来看和其他许多亚洲城市并无两样。
What was it like on the trains?
The first thing I noticed was how quiet it was. It seemed so tame -- no one was saying anything -- and perhaps could even be described as a little lifeless.
But then I came back to the subway in Hong Kong and I realized ... people here lack communication as well.
Even though the Hong Kong trains are louder and it seems more lively at first, the reality is that commuters here do not communicate. They are glued to their smartphones. In Pyongyang I did see some people on their smartphones, but far fewer.
Instead they were looking around, seemed almost shy, but not really talking to each other either. I realized that, in a way, this commute was just like commutes in so many other Asian cities.
CNN：你和其他乘客有过互动吗？
有一次我差点错过了要搭的地铁，因为那时我正在拍一位女列车员，而同团的其他游客已经上车，车门也已经关上了。
然后我正在拍的那位列车员向司机吹口哨，示意他开门让我上车。
还有一次互动是和一位老人。我想给他让座，就拍拍他肩膀，但一开始他并不理解。所以另一位女士告诉他，我想把座位让给他。
这几次互动当然成为了旅行最有趣的部分。都是一些小事，但却充满人性。这提醒了我，无论我们身处何处，我们所关心的事情是共通的，比如关爱老人。
Did you interact with any commuters?
At one point I almost missed my train because I was taking a picture of a female conductor while the rest of my tour group was on the train -- and the door slammed shut.
The conductor I was photographing then whistled to the train driver, indicating that he should open the door and let me on.
Another interaction was with an elderly man. I wanted to give him my seat so patted him on the shoulder, but at first he didn't understand. So another lady communicated to him that I wanted to give him my seat.
These interactions were definitely the most interesting parts of my journey. They were so small but felt so human. It reminded me that wherever we are, we all have these common human interests, such as taking care of our elderly.
CNN：你的这些照片反响如何？
可以说褒贬不一。有人认为这些图片很有启发性，让他们看到了朝鲜难得一见的画面。还有些人上来就质疑我去朝鲜的动机，称我是不是拿了朝鲜的好处，在给他们洗白。
What has the response been to your photography?
It's been very heavily mixed. Some people say these images are eye opening, and show a side to the country that they don't usually get to see. Others ask why I would ever go to North Korea in the first place, then claim my images are propaganda and that I'm sponsored by North Korea.
原文来源：CNN
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