#每天读一点服装史# MEN OF ACTION

1837 - 1900

MEN OF ACTION

While men’s suits settled into sobriety and uniformly dark coloring, their leisurewear for sports and country pursuits became more flamboyant and revealing.

Garments were adapted for the purpose of health-oriented exercise, using stretchy materials such as jersey knit.

1900 BATHING SUIT

Drapers who supplied cloth and ready-to-wear shirts began to focus increasingly on sportswear for pursuits such as tennis, boating, mountaineering, and golf.

Men wore plus fours for golf from the 1860s.

PLUS FOURS

From the mid-century French companies and Britain’s Aquascutum and Burberry developed lined, twilled cotton fabrics for waterproof outerwear for the huntin, shootin, fishing fraternity.

Shepherd plaid, a black-and-white check, was popular in the 1890s.

Sports clubs and activities brought of healthy bodies to fuel the mind.

J.M.Barrie, author of Peter Pan, even had his own cricket team from 1887.

CRICKET TEAM

THE LEOTARD

Prussian Eugen Sandow became a celebrity of British music halls in the 1890s as a bodybuilder, extolling the virtues of weight-bearing exercise on the physique.

He wore only stretch-fabric leotard.

The garment was named after Jules Leotard, a trapeze artist.

The leotard could be long or short sleeved, with a low or high neck.

Sandow wore his with a belt and gladiator-style sandals.

Earlier sports such as pugilism (a form of boxing) had already seen men bare to the chest, wearing only light-colored breeches.

SANDOW

1837 - 1900

男士运动

当男士套装停留在严肃均匀的深色调当中，他们的运动着装与乡村追求也变的越发华丽与袒露。

服装以适应健康运动为目的，使用弹力材料例如针织运动球衣等。

1900 家庭泳装

面料与成衣提供商越来越关注运动服装，例如网球服，划船服，登山服与高尔夫制服等。

男士从十九世纪六十年代开始穿灯笼裤打高尔夫球。

打击球高尔夫球服

来自中世纪法国公司与英国Aquascutum与Burberry联合开发的里衬，为打猎，射击，钓鱼设计了斜纹棉织物防水外套。

牧羊人格，一种黑白相间的格子花纹，在十九世纪九十年代很受欢迎。

体育活动与俱乐部灌输给人们健康身体的理念。

Peter Pan的作者James Barrie甚至从1887年开始就有了自己的板球队。

打击球队

连体衣

普鲁士 尤金 桑多夫在十九世纪90年代成为英国音乐厅的名人，作为一名健美运动员，他颂扬负重运动对身体的好处。

他只穿着弹力织物紧身衣Leotard。

这件衣服以空中飞人Jules Leotard命名。

Leotard可以是长袖或者短袖，可以是高领也可以低领。

桑多夫穿它的时候搭配腰带和角斗士风格凉鞋。

早期运动如pugilism（一种拳击形式）已经能看到男人裸露前胸，只穿着浅色的马裤。

桑多夫