#每天读一点服装史102篇# SETTING STANDARDS

1920 - 1929

SETTING STANDARDS

Although there were no major additions to the vocabulary of men’s formal wear in the 1920s, the move toward increasing informality continued in that decade.

1924 BELLE JARDINIERE DEPARTMENT STORE FASHION ILLUSTRATION

The constant changing of rules could cause anxiety and embarrassment.

In the casinos of French resorts or at the dinner tables of ocean liners, a dinner suit or tuxedo was now considered appropriate when previously only full dress would have done.

The tail or dress coat remained a must for an evening spent at the opera, a ball, or a formal dinner party where it provided the perfect foil for colorful, sparking evening dresses.

Frock coats could still be seen on city streets but mainly worn by older men.

Magazines and etiquette books were prescriptive about what was considered good form, but those wealthy, famous, or good-looking enough such as Hollywood stars were granted a certain sartorial licence.

ARROW COLLAR MAN

This advertisement for collars and shirts bearing the American Arrow label sets almost unobtainable sartorial and physical standards.

The stiff, white shirt front, wing collar, and white bow tie draw the eye to the typically chiseled feature of J.C. Leyendecker’s creation.

White carnations were the recommended buttonhole for full dress, although gardenias were also accepted.

The illustration highlights the close fit of full dress, emphasizing the chest and confining the waist.

1920 - 1929

制定标准

二十世纪20年代的男士正装，尽管没有重大的服饰词汇出现，却是一个向不拘小节变迁的十年。

1924 MEN SUIT

规则的不断改变会导致焦虑和一些窘困。

在法国度假村或远洋客轮的餐桌赌场上，一套晚宴西装或者燕尾礼服在当时是必须的装扮，现在则会适时选择穿着。

燕尾服或者礼服外套是夜晚前往歌剧院，舞会，或者正式晚宴的必要装束，它们是金属的最佳衬托色，令亮片礼服更加闪耀。

1927 TUXEDO

罩袍福罗克大衣在城市街道上依然可见，但主要由年长男性穿着。

杂志与礼仪书会介绍当下的流行款式，但那些富有的，出名的或者足够好看的例如好莱坞明星仍然会成为裁缝师争相模仿的对象。

箭领男士

这个针对领子与衬衫的广告确立了美国箭牌商标无法复制的地位与体态标准。

刚性，白衬衫前片，翅翼领与白色领结都是插画师J.C. Leyendecker作品中吸引人眼球的典型装扮。

白色康乃馨是最为推荐的礼服胸花，当然栀子花也可以被接受。

这幅广告突出礼服的修身剪裁，强调胸部与腰围的限制。