女人衣橱里不再穿,不再要,不再被爱的衣服有怎样的出路?
被二手使用,或彻底扔掉。
会造成环境污染吗?换个大角度说,时装产业是污染行业吗?
是。时装产业是世界第二大污染业,仅次于石油和燃气产业。
这令人难以置信。但事实如此。
来,听听这个TED 演讲—“3 Creative ways to fix fashion’s waste problem” 解决时尚背后环境污染
问题的三个创造性方案。
我们扔掉的衣服会造成什么样的浪费?演讲中说,
“在美国,每年产生的 所有纺织和服装垃圾 只有15% 以捐赠或回收之类的方式结尾。 这就意味着每年那剩下的 85%的纺织和服饰垃圾 最终都会被填埋。 我想要更直观地看一下这个问题。 因为我觉得 大家对85%这个数字可能没概念。 换句话说,这意味着几乎 1300万吨的衣服和纺织垃圾 每年都以填埋的方式被处理, 这还仅仅只是美国, 平均下来这相当于每个人都扔了 大约200件T恤。”
In the US, only 15 percent of the total textile and garmentwaste that's generated each year ends up being donated or recycled in some way,which means that the other 85 percent of textile and garment waste end up inlandfills every year. Now, I want to put this into perspective, because I don'tquite think that the 85 percent does the problem justice. This means thatalmost 13 million tons of clothing and textile waste end up in landfills everyyear in just the United States alone. This averages out to be roughly 200T-shirts per person ending up in the garbage.
在加拿大,我们扔掉的衣服足够填满我的家多伦多那边最大的、可以容纳六万人的露天体育场,并且足足可以填满三个这样的体育场。
In Canada, we throw away enough clothing to fill the largest stadium in my home town of Toronto, one that seats 60,000 people, with amountain of clothes three times the size of that stadium.
除此之外,还有更可悲的地方。
我们不仅浪费掉了 很多可以使用的东西, 而且每年都会使用很多资源 来制造我们购买的衣服。 平均而言,每年每个家庭购买的衣服 需要足足可装满 1000个浴缸的水来制造。 1000个浴缸的水,一家人,每年。 这可不是个小数目。
The unfortunate reality is, not only do we waste a lot of
the things we do consume, but we also use a lot to produce the clothes that we
buy each year. On average, a household's purchase of clothing per year requires
1,000 bathtubs of water to produce. A thousand bathtubs of water per household,
per year. That's a lot of water.
面对这个问题,演讲者提出了三个有创意的解决方案:
第一:回收的角度。设计能够在衣服寿命结束时可回收的服装。
作为一位二十四岁的,有着一台缝纫机,二手店狂热爱好者,他非常谦虚地提出一个建议,就是用打造乐高的方式来设计服装。在乐高的世界里, 这些都是可组装的、模块化的。 如今的服装设计却很少是模块化的。如果我们能对服装进行模块化设计,这种情况将可以改变。模块化会使衣服在寿命尽头更易拆解。
Now, designing recyclable clothing is definitely somethingto leave to the professionals. But as a 24-year-old thrift store aficionadoarmed with a sewing machine, if I were to very humbly posit one perspective, itwould be to approach clothing design kind of like building with Lego. When weput together a brick of Lego, it's very strong but very easily manipulated. It'smodular in its nature. Clothing design as it stands today is very rarelymodular.
But I think this can change if we design clothes in amodular way to be easily disassembled at the end of their lives.
第二: 降解的角度,转移资源。不穿的衣物作为肥料,而不是直接扔到垃圾桶里。因此要在开始设计时就考虑用料的问题,使得衣物在寿命终结时可以降解。
回收衣物只是这个问题的一个方面, 如果我们想要真正去修复这些时尚产业带来的严重的环境影响, 那么我们就需要更进一步,并开始设计在寿命终结时可降解的衣物。 我们衣橱里的绝大多数衣服,平均寿命一般都在三年左右。哪怕只是将衣服的寿命延长九个月, 所带来的垃圾和水污染就会减少20%到30%。 但是潮流就是潮流, 这意味着风格永远都在不断变化之中。 几年后,你很可能会穿跟今天不一样的衣服,不管你多么想要保护环境。
但对我们来说幸运的是, 有一些东西永不过时,就是我们的基本衣物—— 大家的袜子、内衣,甚至睡衣, 我们大家都会将这些衣服穿到破为止, 并最后直接把它们扔进垃圾桶。但是如果我们可以把这些东西作为肥料, 而不是直接扔到垃圾堆里呢? 这对环境保护的意义是很重大的。 我们所要做的就是转移资源, 开始用更多的自然纤维生产更多这样的物品, 像是100%有机纯棉。
Now, recycling clothing is definitely one piece of the puzzle.But if we want to take fixing the environmental impact that the fashionindustry has more seriously, then we need to take this to the next step andstart to design clothes to also be compostable at the end of their lives. Formost of the types of clothes we have in our closet the average lifespan isabout three years. Now, I'm sure there's many of us that have gems in ourdrawers that are much older than that, which is great. Because being able toextend the life of a garment by even only nine months reduces the waste andwater impact that that garment has by 20 to 30 percent. But fashion is fashion.Which means that styles are always going to change and you're probably going tobe wearing something different than you were today eight seasons from now, nomatter how environmentally friendly you want to be.
But lucky for us, there are some items that never go out ofstyle. I'm talking about your basics -- your socks, underwear, even yourpajamas. We're all guilty of wearing these items right down to the bone, and inmany cases throwing them in the garbage because it's really difficult to donateyour old ratty socks that have holes in them to your local thrift store. Butwhat if we were able to compost these items rather than throw them in the trashbin? The environmental savings could be huge, and all we would have to do isstart to shift more of our resources to start to produce more of these itemsusing more natural fibers, like 100 percent organic cotton.
第三:改变服装漂染的方式。自然染料着色,减少对化学染料的依赖。
回收和降解是两个很重要的方面。 但是我们还需要重新思考的是 我们漂染服装的方式。 如今,我们使用到的 10%到20%的有害化学染料,最终都流入临近的发展中国家生产中心的水体之中。让问题更加复杂的是,这些有害化学品在让一件衣物保持特定色彩并维持很长时间方面很有效,就是这些有害化学染料能够让一件亮红色裙子 在很多年后依然鲜艳动人。
但是如果我们用其他不同的东西来染色呢? 如果我们可以用一些在我们厨房餐柜里都能找到的东西来漂染我们的衣服呢? 如果我们能用一些香料和香草类植物来为我们的衣服染色呢? 生活中有不计其数的食物可以帮我们为衣物着色, 但是这些着色剂会使衣服颜色随着时间逐渐褪去。这会与那些我们经常用有害化学染料所染出来的衣物截然不同。但是用这种自然的方式漂染服装可以保证我们的衣服更独特,对环境更友好。
Now, recycling and composting are two critical priorities.But one other thing that we have to rethink is the way that we dye our clothes.Currently, 10 to 20 percent of the harsh chemical dye that we use end up inwater bodies that neighbor production hubs in developing nations. The trickything is that these harsh chemicals are really effective at keeping a garment aspecific color for a long period of time. It's these harsh chemicals that keepthat bright red dress bright red for so many years.
But what if we were able to use something different? What ifwe were able to use something that we all have in our kitchen cabinets at hometo dye our clothes? What if we were able to use spices and herbs to dye ourclothes? There's countless food options that would allow for us to stainmaterial, but these stains change color over time. This would be prettydifferent than the clothes that were dyed harshly with chemicals that we'reused to. But dyeing clothes naturally this way would allow for us to make surethey're more unique and environmentally friendlier. Let's think about it.
对于臃肿的衣柜,我只是从“断舍离”的角度去考虑,去整理,从未考虑过每一件衣服的买和扔对于环境的影响。今日学习演讲之后,我第一次意识到时装业是污染源头之一,也第一次开始思考在自己的生活中,我的衣服和环境的关系。
希望每一件衣服美丽了自己,也美好了世界。