1380 - 1450
REGIONAL FLAIR
The 15th century saw an eclectic mix of regional styles and the beginnings of pants.
For men, the fitted cote (tunic) became even shorter.
It was worn on its own or underneath long outer farments called houppelandes, using vast amouts of fabric and bringing back wide sleeves.
Clothing became more vivid as dyeing and weaving improved.
At the same time black grew more fashionable, expecially for the middle classes, who spent more and more on clothes.
Better wools led to the craze for cutting raw edges as decoration and fur use reached its peak.
Individual hose legs were stitched together to create full - bottomed hose - a key development and the origin of today's pants.
Headgear offered variety -- high felt cones, draped cloth chaperons and hoods, wide - brimmed straw hats, and large silk and fur bonnets.
Sleeve shapes also grew more inventive.
FURS IN GREAT DEMAND
The little Ice Age made temperatures in Europe dip in the 14th century.
Demand for fur clothing was huge; sometimes up to 2,000 animals were used in one garment.
Most luxury furs came from Russia: ermine, a stoat's winter coat; sable, a brown or black weasel fur; and brown marten skins.
Cheaper local furs were budge (lambs' wool), coney (rabbit or hare), fox, and wolf.
The 14th-century Italian merchants above inspecting vair (winter squirrel fur) have the same fur lining their hoods.
Furs had heraldic meanings and painter too represented them with stylized patterns.
公元1380 - 1450年
独领风骚
在十五世纪你能看到一种不拘一格的混搭区域风格，并且裤子在此时出现了。
对男性来说，合身的袍子变得更短了。
它可以单独穿着，也可以当做胡普兰衫的打底，一种使用大量面料的服装，并且宽袖又重新流行起来。
由于染色与编织技术的改进，服装变得更加生动了。
几乎在同一时间，黑色变得时髦，特别在中产阶层，他们花费更多更多钱在穿着上。
更好品质的羊毛使得人们对原始感的边缘装饰狂热起来，它令毛皮的运用达到顶峰。
单腿的裤袜被缝合在一起变成连裤袜，这是当今裤子的重要发展点和起源。
头饰提供各种变化 -- 有高锥形帽，伴随垂坠面料和兜帽，宽阔形 -- 有宽边稻草帽子，大丝巾包头以及毛皮苏格兰帽。
袖子的廓形也多了许多变化。
毛皮时代
十四世纪在小冰河时代影响下，欧洲温度下降。
毛皮服装需求巨大；有时一件衣服要用到多达2000只的动物。
大多数奢华的毛皮料来自俄罗斯：白貂，一种鼬鼠皮毛用来作冬装外套；黑貂，一种棕色或黑色的鼬鼠皮毛；以及棕色貂皮。
更便宜的本地毛皮料有羊羔，兔子，狐狸以及狼。
十四世纪的意大利商人以vair冬季松鼠毛皮作帽子的里衬。
毛皮也有纹章的象征意义，画家用它们来表现图腾。
